Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Boudoir Jacket 1917



Here’s another antique pattern, a very interesting construction for a crocheted garment – The Boudoir Jacket. I put a copy of the original antique pattern below. I also wrote out the pattern with some notes/modifications, you can find it at the end of this post.

The pattern calls for hook size 5. I read somewhere that the antique size is equivalent to a US size F (3.5mm). However, I think that antiue size 5 is similar to current Japanese hook size standards – thus hook 5 is 3mm. This chart may also be useful in converting, see this link where antique size 5 is 4mm.

I have figured that the pattern calls for 4mm hook. The foundation chain (160 chain stitches) goes around the neck over the shoulders down to the front. So the length of this chain determines the length of the jacket on the front. I am using 3mm hook and Light Fingering (UK 3-ply) yarn. This makes a foundation (with 3 rows completed) of about 30 inches, reaching just midriff for me. You can use larger hook and yarn for larger size or you can add chain stitches to the foundation, and add rows.



Here, working through several rows, hoping the jacket gets to the right fit and length! I can imagine that some modification could make this construction fun to work with.

The jacket begins with a long chain and then double crochet stitches along the chain, with an increase in the middle to create this V shape. The jacket is worked in rows, back loop, to create that ribbed texture.

Have worked several rows today, progress is slow! However, I can now see the jacket taking shape. The back should extend downwards as the shoulders widen. Then a separate section is crocheted under the arms, joining front to back sides.



The Boudoir Jacket, work in progress.



Now have gotten this far, the width of the jacket goes over my shoulders now.


At row 28-35 of the pattern:

Count 38 stitches from the back tip of the jacket, then start crocheting from there, in my case, up to 33 dc, leaving 60 sts or so for the armholes.

The pattern asked to make 7 rows for the side. For me 4 rows is enough for the side of the jacket then join to the front with sc sts.

Count 38 stitches from the back tip of the jacket, then start crocheting from there, in my case, up to 33 dc, leaving 60 sts or so for the armholes. The pattern asked to make 7 rows for the side. For me 4 rows is enough for the side of the jacket then join to the front with sc sts.



Working on trim now.

The jacket fits really well, I think it is crucial how many rows you make along the side so you can adjust the fit.

Starting the shell border.


Finished the shell trim today. I will not put a trim around the armholes, I feel such a trim breaks the lovely lines of the crocheted fabric. I hope to wear this tomorrow when we go out for the early morning walk!

The shell border in progress.

The shell border finished! I decided not to crochet a border for the armholes because I feel that the border cuts the lovely lines of the jacket.

At first, I thought the pointed back was not so nice, but now I see how important it is to the design of the jacket. I also didn’t put the shell border around the armholes because it seems to cut the nice flowing lines of the ribbing of the crocheted fabric. Well, I am very pleased with how this pattern turned out. I will make another one with a different type of texture pattern!

Boudoir Jacket No. 476
Size 30 to 36

The jacket is worked from the neck down, completing the back and front sections. The side section is then crocheted along the back edge of each side of the jacket, then joined to the front, creating the armholes. The shell border is crocheted all around the jacket as well as all around the armholes.

Materials: I used Light Fingering weight yarn (UK 3-ply) and 3mm crochet hook. I also used a button for the front of the jacket. I decided not to make the shell border around the armholes because I feel that it cuts the beautiful flow of lines of the jacket.

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 160, dc in fourth stitch from hook, dc in each of next 75 ch, 2 dc in 76th ch, 2 dc in 77th ch, ch 1, 2 dc in 78th ch, 2 dc in 79th ch, 1 dc in each of the next ch to the end of the row, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (count as dc), sk first dc, back loop dc in every stitch to the center, 2 back loop dc in dc before the ch, 2 dc in ch, ch 1, 2 dc in same ch, 2 back loop dc in next dc, back loop dc in each dc to end of row, turn.

Row 3-27: Work as in Row 2. Fasten off.

Row 28-onwards: Counting 38 dc from back tip of jacket, ch 3 (count as dc), work back loop dc in each of next 32 dc (33 dc made), turn. Repeat to make 2 rows (for size 28), 4 rows (for size 30), 6 rows (for size 32) or 8 rows (for size 36). Join with sc to corresponding st to the front of the jacket, forming the armholes. Fasten off.

Shell Border:

Work entirely around the jacket.

Row 1: Join yarn to lower edge of jacket, ch 3 (count as dc), sk 3 sts, *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next st, sk 3 sts; rep fr * all around, putting 3 shells in each corner stitch. Join with sl st to first dc.

Row 2: Ch 3 (count as dc), 6 dc in next ch sp, *front post dc in next dc, 6 dc in next ch sp, rep fr * all around, join with sl st to first dc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same dc, ch 3, sc in next dc (picot made), continue making picots in every dc of the shell skipping the dc between the shells. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Work the same shell border around the armholes, skipping 2 stitches instead of 3.

Weave in all ends and block to size.