Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Using Scrap Yarns to Make a Vest


Current WIP is this ---- a vest made up of scrap pieces of yarn tied together. The construction technique is not uncommon - work begins at the center back with a doily worked in the round. From there, the piece grows, uses long chains to make the armholes, then continues on to create the length and left and right front of the vest.

Below are progress photos that make the construction of the vest much clearer. I hope to finish this within the week. I used various colours of cotton 6-8 ply and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Monday, August 29, 2016

Workshop: Boudoir Bralette

Using sheer fabric, thread and elastics, let's make a bralette inspired by Fleur of England's "Ophelia Boudoir Bra". We'll learn how to cut the fabric for the bra cups and then crochet the lace overlay and the lace detail at the cross-back straps. Feel free to modify the design to create your own! On-Line Workshop/Tutorial starts September 17, Saturday. Join us at Crochetology@Facebook!

Crochetology hosts "Workshop: Boudoir Bralette", a crochet version of Fleur of England's Ophelia Boudoir Bra: guipure floral lace details on the sheer tulle mesh cup and at the slender-strapped racerback.

You will need: (colour of your choice) sheer tulle mesh fabric or frosted organza or other suitable fabric, needle, matching colour sewing thread, elastics, crochet hook 2mm and size 10 crochet cotton thread.

Feel free to modify the design to create your own! On-Line Workshop/Tutorial starts September 17, Saturday.

How-To: Crab Stitch

This coming weekend (Sept 3-4) I'll be posting a video showing how to make the Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet. I find it an excellent stitch for edging of garments that need strength such as swimwear, as well as for bags. Feel free to post examples of crochet using the Crab Stitch! Join in! (Note: This is an On-Line Event). Join in at Crochetology@Facebook!

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Hand-Sewn Dress with White Motifs

I would like to try making a dress made of fabric decorated with crocheted motifs. This is a work in progress. I made the dress by hand-sewing using muslin cloth. Then the motifs are crocheted in crochet cotton thread 8. I plan to decorate with beads as well. I include patterns for the motifs so you can also try it.

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Clandestine Cloud

This is a version of Clandestine Wrap worked in Tibetan Cloud (fingering weight Tibetan yak) and 4,5mm hook. I made the sleeves longer, a combination of the mesh stitch and fishnet chains with a sc/picot trim at the last round. I used about 50 grams (or 1 hank) of yarn. Another modification I made is the side seams. Instead of sc/ch stitches, I joined with sc, ch3 stitches, joining each row to create a zigzag pattern as seen in the detail photo below.

Thursday, August 18, 2016

Clandestine in Zitron Filisilk

In just a day, this project is completed, a version of The Clandestine Wrap! I used 4.5mm bamboo hook and Zitron Filisilk, a lovely lace/2-ply yarn of 70% merino wool and 30% silk, using 1 hank or 100 grams/600 meters to complete this top for a bust size 36".

The pattern is a simple modification of  The Clandestine Wrap, starting at the back, then joining the front left side and front right side to the back at the shoulders, then seaming the sides with gaps for the armholes. The sleeves are crocheted around the armholes.

The sleeve pattern I used is different from  The Clandestine Wrap, I used one round of (ch 5, sc), the next two rounds is (dc, ch 3, dc, ch3) then one round of (ch 5, sc), followed by the next two rounds in (dc, ch 3, dc, ch3), then one round of (ch 5, sc) which establishes the pattern for the sleeve. At this point, I want a short cap sleeve and end with one round of (ch 3, sc) followed by a trim of (3 sc, picot).

To strengthen the edges of the garment I worked one round of (sc, ch 3, sc) evenly all around the neck and hem. I didn't want the edges to be decorative, I only want a simple straight edge. The garment is intended to be worn over clothing, with the front open or tied as shown in the photos below.

The construction is so simple and modifying is simple too, I hope you get to try it to start creating your own designs! Happy crocheting!

Monday, August 15, 2016

Finished - Ascot Scarf in Yak

The Ascot Scarf is finished. I made it in pure yak in natural dark brown colour. It is a decidedly Victorian pattern, from a book published in 1891. I reproduce the text pattern below. The lining I used for the neck band is printed batik fabric.

Ascot Scarf
From Brainerd and Armstrong Company's "Art Needlework: The Last and Best Book on Art Needlework."

Materials. Two ounces of Brainerd & Armstrong's Crochet Silk and a No. 2 Star crochet hook.


First row. Chain 48.

2d row. Turn, and counting back do 3 d. c. in fourth stitch of ch., do 4 d. c. in eighth st. and continue to end of chain, leaving 3 stitches between the shells. There should be 12 shells.

3d row. Turn, ch. 3, do 3 d. c. in space between first 2 d. c. of last shell in second row, and 4 d. c. between first 2 in next and remaining shells.

4th and continuous rows same as third. Make this part of work 12 1/2 inches long.

Next row. Turn, ch. 3, do 3 d. c. in space between first 2d c. of last shell in previous row, and 4 d. c. between first 2 in next and the 10 following shells, do 3 d. c. in space between first 2 d. c. of twelfth or last shell.

Next row. Same, narrowing 1 stitch in last shell.

Next row. Ch. 3, do 2d. c. in space between first 2 d. c. of last shell in previous row, etc., narrowing 1 stitch in first and last shell of each row until you have only 10 shells.

Then begin narrowing as at first, 1 stitch in last shell of each row until 2 sts. remain, then 1 st. in first and last shell of each row.

Repeat until you have only 4 shells remaining.

This part of work [or band] should be 8 inches long, making in all 23 3/4 inches. This completes one-half the tie, bind off, make other half the same, join two ends of band.

Line neck band with ribbon same width.

Sunday, August 14, 2016

Clandestine Wrap

This design uses very simple stitch patterns (dc for the body and fishnet chains for the sleeves) and a simple increase (add dc) to shape the neck and armholes. The goal is to focus on the fit of the garment. Selecting soft yarn with good drape is therefore important, so that the garment wraps around the body shape.

I include some sketches pointing out the shaping and construction of the garment. It is quite simple. Once you are able to complete the basic garment, it should not be too difficult modifying the design by using a different stitch pattern, altering the length and design of the sleeves, etc.

Happy crocheting!

“Clandestine” must be worked only in the softest and most luxurious yarns. It must drape and wrap sultry to the body. The design and construction of “Clandestine” is surprisingly simple with uncomplicated shaping, crocheted with basic stitches. You can make “Clandestine” to fit your measurements and easily modify the pattern to change the length of the sleeve. To make a garment that fits a bust 34”, I used two hanks of Silky-Cashmere by Lotus Yarns. The leftover, I used to make a complementary scarf. Beautiful!

YARN: Silky Cashmere 2-ply Fingering by Lotus Yarns (100 grams / 800 yards / 750 meters)
HOOK: 4mm bamboo hook
GAUGE: 20 dc and 7 rows = 4” x 4”
MEASUREMENTS: Bust 36 (40, 44, 48)” / 92 (102, 112, 122) cm

NOTES: “Clandestine” is commenced at the back. The left front side and the right front side are worked separately from the shoulders and then the sides seamed, forming the armholes. The sleeves are worked around the armholes and the straps are worked at each side. Finally, a decorative trim is worked along the neck.

Instructions for four sizes is provided below but you can make “Clandestine” to fit your size by making the corresponding number of foundation stitches according to your measurements.



Starting at the shoulders: With Silky-Cashmere yarn and 4mm hook, ch 183 (203, 223, 243).

Row 1: Dc in fifth ch fr hook, dc in each ch across; 180 (200, 220, 240) dc made. Ch 3 (count as 1 dc here and throughout), turn.

Row 2: Sk first dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Dc in first dc (increase made), dc in next dc and in each dc across, making 2 dc in last dc (increase made). Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 5 - 6: Repeat Row 2.

Rows 7 - 8: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 9 - onwards: Repeat Rows 5-8 until piece measures 8 (9, 9, 10) “ from the top, this shapes the armhole of the piece; then continue as follows:

Next Row: Sk first dc, dc in next dc and in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Repeat this row until the piece measures 17 (18, 19, 20)” long from the top. Fasten off.


Row 1: Join yarn with sl st to first foundation ch at top corner of back piece, ch 3 (count as dc), sk first ch, dc in each of next 12 (14, 16, 18) ch, ch 3 (count as dc here and thereafter), turn.

Row 2 - 8: As in instructions for Back section above.

Rows 9 - onwards: Repeat the established pattern with increase at both sides corresponding with the Back section.

Next Row: Continue with the established pattern but this time continuing the increase along the center front side and no increase along the outer side of the piece (under the armhole of the piece). Fasten off.


Work this section as mirror image of Front Right Side. Fasten off.


Join seams along each side of the piece with [sc, ch, sc, ch] worked evenly on the wrong side, alternately, you can sew the seams together, starting at the last increase row down to the hem.


Join yarn with sc to st at armpit and work evenly (ch 5, sc) all around the armhole ending with ch 2, dc in first sc. Continue the next round as follows: sc in same st, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch loop, rep fr * all around, again ending with ch 2, dc in first sc. Continue in this manner until sleeve measures 9 (9, 10, 10)”; end with a trim row by working 3 sc, picot evenly. Fasten off.

Repeat as above for the other sleeve.


Join yarn with sl st to bottom front corner of Front Right Side and make 12 sc evenly along 3 rows, then ch 3, turn, sk first sc, dc in each of next sc, ch 3, turn, sk first dc, dc in each of next dc; repeat this pattern to make a strap at least 30” long. Fasten off. Repeat the procedure to make strap on Front left Side. Fasten off.


Working on the right side, join yarn with sc to fifth row of strap, then make trim all around the neck and down until the fifth row of the other strap as follows: ]ch 3, 2 dc in sc at base of 3-ch, sc in next row]. Fasten off.


Weave in all ends, block to measurements.