Here are some of the projects I finished recently. I used Ice Yarns for all these projects. The woven labels are from It's Mine Labels. Enjoy! :)
Cardigan using Antipilling Colour and Magic Fine (for trimming) both from Ice Yarns. The pattern is from a Japanese magazine and the hook I used is 4mm.
This is a jacket I made using 3.5mm hook and Summer Jeans Blue from Ice Yarns. The pattern is from Garnstudio.com called Whispers.
This is a circle jacket that I made by modifying a doily pattern. I used 4.5mm hook and Rainbow and Magic Fine Yarns by Ice Yarns.
Wednesday, August 2, 2017
Monday, July 24, 2017
White Feathers Free Crochet Pattern
White
Feathers
You
will need:
COCA
by Lotus Yarns in natural white colour, 90% cotton/10% cashmere 320
meters/100 grams (150 grams needed for size S)
Crochet
hook size 4mm
Design
Notes: The top is crocheted in two pieces Front and Back. Each
piece is worked from the bottom up. Shoulder and side seams are
joined together using sc stitches worked on the wrong side. Model
shown is in size S (Bust 32”), 21” long. Larger sizes may be made
by starting with the appropriate length of foundation chain done in
multiples of 8 +1.
Special
Stitches used in this pattern:
2dc-CL
(2 double crochet cluster): Leaving last loop of each stitch on
hook, make 2 dc in indicated stitch, yo, pull yarn through all loops
on hook.
V-Stitch:
In stitch indicated make (dc, ch 2, dc).
Instructions:
Front:
Ch
80 +1 (or make a foundation chain in multiples of 8 +1 that is half
your hip size measured loosely, not tight)
Row
1: Ch 1, sc in second ch fr hook, sc in each ch across, ch 4
(count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row
2: Sk first two sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, dc in next sc, rep fr *
across. Ch 1, turn.
Row
3: Sc in first sc, *ch 2, sk next dc, in next dc make (2dc-CL, ch
2, 2dc-CL), ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending
with sc in last dc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row
4: Dc in first sc, *ch 2, sc in 2-ch sp bet 2dc-CLs, ch 2,
V-stitch in next sc, rep fr * across, ending with (dc, ch 1, dc) in
last sc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row
5: 2dc-CL in first dc, *ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2, in 2-ch sp of
V-stitch make (2dc-CL, ch 2, 2dc-CL), rep fr * across, ending with
(2dc-CL, ch 1, dc) in last dc; ch 1, turn.
Row
6: Sc in first dc, *ch 2, V-stitch in next sc, ch 2, sc in 2-ch
sp bet 2dc-CLs, rep fr * across, ending with ch 2, sc in last dc; ch
3 (count as dc), turn.
Row
7: Dc in first 2-ch sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next 2-ch sp, ch 1, dc in
next 2-ch sp, dc in next sc, dc in next 2-ch sp, ch 1, rep fr *
across, ending with ch 1, dc in last 2-ch sp, dc in last sc; ch 4
(count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row
8: Dc in first 1-ch sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1,
dc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, dc in last dc;
ch 1, turn.
Row
9: Rep fr Row 3 onwards until desired length is reached, ending
with either Row 4 or Row 6. Fasten off.
Back:
Assembly
and Finishing:
Working
on the Wrong Side, join side seams with sc leaving holes for arms.
Join the shoulder seams using same method. Fasten off. Block to
measurements.
Wednesday, July 12, 2017
Lace Shorts Free Pattern
I made these shorts by modifying a capelet pattern. Give it a try and let me know if you have any questions or if you find any errors. Cheers! :)
Promenade
Lace
by
Fatima Lasay /Crochetology.net
You
will need:
Natural
Linen by Lotus yarns, 260 meters/100 grams (2 hanks or 200 grams for size S)
Crochet
hook size 4mm
Measurements:
Model shown in size S (hip circumference 34”)
Length:
16”
Length
of crotch and overall length of shorts may be modified. Hip
circumference may be modified by beginning with a foundation chain
made in multiples of 7 sts.
Design
Notes: The shorts are crocheted in the round starting at the
waist, increasing towards the bottom. The crotch is made by joining
front and back sides of the shorts in the middle. Each leg is then
crocheted in the round separately. Waist band is crocheted over the
foundation chain in the round. Ties are woven along the waist band
and ends decorated with beads.
Instructions:
Ch
a multiple of 7 sts to make a chain that goes around the hips
comfortably, not too tight not too loose. Sl st in first ch to make a
ring.
Rnd
1: Ch 1, sc in first ch, *ch 4, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 4, sk
3 ch, sc in next ch, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first
sc to join.
Rnd
2: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp,
*sc in next 4-ch lp, 8 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around,
ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
3: Sl st in second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc,
ch 1] 4 times, *dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1]
5 times, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
4: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc
in next 1-ch sp] 4 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around,
ending with sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
5: Sl st in each st to go to second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same
3-ch lp, *ch 4, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk 2 3-ch lp, sc in next
3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
6: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp,
*sc in next 4-ch lp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around,
ending with sc in last 4-ch lp, dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first
dc to join.
Rnd
7: Ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc]
6 times, *sk next (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, dc in
next dc, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
8: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc
in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around,
ending with sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
9: Ch 6 ( count as dc, ch 3), *sk first 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch
lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp,
dc between next 2 sc, ch 3, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl
st in first dc to join.
Rnd
10: Sl st in 3-ch sp, *8 dc in next 4-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch sp,
ch 4, sc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with 8 dc in
last 4-ch lp, sc in last 3-ch sp, ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
11: Sl st in first and second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), dc in
next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc, ] 5 times, *in 4-ch lp make (dc, ch 1,
dc), sk next dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, rep fr
* all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
12: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc
in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, ch 3, sk next 1-ch sp, sc in next 1-ch sp,
rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sk last 1-ch sp, sl st in
first sc to join.
Rnd
13: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch
4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, in
next 3-ch lp make (dc, ch 1, dc), ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all
around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
14: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3, 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next
3-ch sp, 4 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 3-ch sp, 9 dc in next 4-ch
lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sc in next 3-ch sp, 4 dc in next
1-ch sp, sc in next 3-ch sp, 1 dc in next 4-ch sp, sl st in next dc
to join.
Rnd
15: Ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), *dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next
dc] 6 times, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, sk
(dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, ch 1, rep fr * all around, ending with
sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
16: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc
in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, ch 3, sc in next 2-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next
1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc to
join.
Rnd
17: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp,
*ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, dc
in next 3-ch lp, ch 1, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc
in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in
first sc to join.
Rnd
18: Sl st up to the second ch of 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7
dc in same 4-ch lp, sc in next 4-ch lp, *5 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in
next 4-ch lp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, sc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all
around, ending with 5 dc in last 1-ch sp, sc in last 4-ch lp, dc in
first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
19: Sl st in next dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc,
ch 1] 5 times, *dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, [ch 1,
dc in next dc] 2 times, sk (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6
times, rep fr * all around, ending with dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc,
dc), sl st in first dc to join.
Rnd
20: Sl st in 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in
next 1-ch sp] 5 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp,
sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first
sc to join.
Rnd
21: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch
4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, in
next 3-ch lp make (dc, ch 2, dc), ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next
3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to
join.
Rnd
22: Sl st up to second ch of 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in
same 4-ch lp, *sk 4-ch sp, 6 dc in next 2-ch sp, sk 4-ch sp, 9 dc in
next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sk 4-ch sp, 6 dc in
last 2-ch sp, (place stitch marker here), dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st
in first dc to join. Fasten off.
NOTE:
If you want a longer crotch for the shorts, continue with Rnds 23-25
(as in Rnds 1-3 of instructions for leg of shorts below, end the
crotch with rep of Rnd 22, join the crotch at corresponding points
and proceed with legs as below)
Join
the crotch: Lay the garment flat with the stitch marker in the
middle. Count the number of fans to determine the exact location of
the corresponding point (bet 2 dc) at the back with the stich marker.
Join these two points together by joining yarn with sl st, then
proceed to making one leg of the shorts as follows:
Rnd
1: Sl st up to the second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in
next dc, ch 1] 5 times, *dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, [dc
in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, [dc in
next dc, ch 1] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with dc, sl st in
first dc to join.
Rnd
2: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc
in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, [sc in next 1-ch sp, ch 3] 2 times, sc in
next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to
join.
Rnd
3: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch
4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, dc in
next 3-ch lp, ch 2, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in
next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first
sc to join.
Rnd
4: Rep Rnd 22.
Rnd
5-6: Rep Rnds 1-2 of leg of shorts. Fasten off. Rep for the other
leg.
NOTE:
If you want longer legs for your shorts rep Rnds 3-6 of leg of
shorts.
Make
the waistband:
Rnd
1: Join yarn with sl st to ch at waist. Make 3 sc in each 2-ch
sp, sc in each sc, 4 sc in each 3-ch sp, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
2: Ch 3 (count as dc), sc in each sc all around, sl st in first
dc to join.
Rnd
3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep fr *
all around, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd
4: Ch 1, sc in each sc, 3 sc in each 3-ch sp all around, sl st in
first sc to join. Fasten off.
Make
ties:
Ch
250 or more to make suitable length of chain to go all around the
hips with extra for tying. Fasten off. Weave ties through 3-ch sps
around waistband. Decorate ends of ties with beads. Block to
measurements.
Friday, June 30, 2017
I'm Too Misty (Free Crochet Pattern)
You
will need:
Yarn:
Sugarfree Cottonberry (Substitute with Sport Weight /5-ply Yarn)
Hook:
4mm crochet hook
Measurements:
Fits Bust 32”-34” (36”-38”/40”-42”)
Length:
21” (22.5”/22.5”)
Gauge:
1 patt rep = 1.75” (W) x 1.25” (H)
Design
Notes: Top is crocheted in two pieces, Front and Back, from the
top down, with increase at the armpit and another increase for the
hip. Shoulder and side seams are joined. Tie is crocheted separately
and woven around the bottom.
Tip:
Work in a loose relaxed manner, not tight.
Instructions:
Front:
Ch
66 (74 / 82) (or chain a multiple of 8 +2)
Row
1: Dc in fifth ch fr hook (count as 2 dc), *ch 4, sk 3 ch, dc in
next ch, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, rep fr * across, ending with
ch 4, sk 3 ch, dc in each of last 2 ch, ch 3 (count as dc here and
throughout), turn.
Row
2: *In 4-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), sk 3-ch sp, rep fr
* across, ending with (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc) in last 4-ch sp, dc in
last dc, ch 3, turn.
Row
3: Dc in 3-ch sp, *ch 4, dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, dc in next
3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 4, dc in last 3-ch sp, dc in
last dc, ch 3, turn.
Row
4: Rep Row 2.
Row
5: 3 dc in 3-ch sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, 3 dc in
next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, 3 dc in last 3-ch
sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.
Row
6: In 1-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), *sk 3-ch sp, in next
1-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), rep fr * across, ending with
dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.
Rows
7-8 (7-10/7-10): Rep Rows 5-6.
Row
9 (11/11): (Inc row) In 3-ch sp make (3 dc , ch 1, 3 dc), *ch 3,
3 dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across,
ending with ch 3, 3 dc in last 3-ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, dc in
last dc, ch 3, turn.
Row
10 (12/12): Rep Row 6.
Rows
11-14 (13-16/13-16): Rep Rows 5-6.
Row
15 (17/17): Rep Row 3.
Rows
16-19 (18-21/18-21): Rep Rows 2-3.
Row
20 (22): Rep Row 2.
Row
21 (23): (Inc row) In 3-ch sp make (dc, ch 4, dc), *ch 3, dc in
next 3-ch sp, ch 4, dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with ch
3, dc in last 3-ch sp, ch 4, dc in same 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3,
turn.
Rows
22-25 (24-27): Rep Rows 2-3.
Row
26 (28/28): Rep Row 2.
Row
27 (29): Rep Row 5, end with ch 1, turn.
Row
28 (30): Ch 1, sc in first dc,
*ch 3, sc in 1-ch sp, ch 3, sc in 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with
sc in last dc, ch 3, turn.
Row
29 (31): 2 dc in first sc, sc in first 3-ch sp, *5 dc in next
sc, sc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with 3 dc in last sc.
Fasten off.
Back
Same
as in Front.
Finishing
and Assembly
Work
along the foundation ch of Front as follows: Working on the Right
Side join to foundation ch with sl st, ch 1, sc in first foundation
ch, *3 sc in 3-ch sp, sc in next ch where sc along Row 1 is worked,
rep fr * across, end with sc in last ch. Fasten off. Repeat for
Back.
With
mattress st, join 6 sts of Front and Back sides along shoulders,
leaving center open for neck.
With
sc, join side seams from Rows 13-29 (15-31/15-31) as follows: working
on Wrong Side of piece, join yarn with sl st to st between Row 13
(15/15) and Row 14 (16/16), ch 1, then make 3 sc around dc of each
Row and 1 sc between each Row. Rows 1-12 (1-14) are left unworked for
armholes.
Make
tie as follows: ch 200 (250/250). Fasten off. Weave tie through Row 28 (30/30) with
ends fastening at center front. Decorate ends of tie with beads or
tassels.
Weave
in all ends and block to measurements.
Wednesday, June 21, 2017
Crocheting a Pair of Fingerless Gloves
For
this project I used SuperSock by Ice Yarns. The yarn is quite fine (it is fingering weight yarn at 400 meters in 100 grams) so
I used two strands held together and a 4mm crochet hook. Here is a
documentation of how I made a pair of fingerless gloves. The number
of stitches you need will depend on your own size. Remember to
take note of the number of rounds and stitches you use since you will
be making a second glove in the exact same manner.
Start
at the top
Start
at the top of your hand just at the base of the fingers. Crochet a
long chain and sl st to make a ring that is large enough to fit
around the hand – not too loose and not too tight.
Crochet
several rounds of sc sts until you reach the inner base of the thumb.
At this point you will need to work a gap for the thumb. You do this
by working in rows instead of rounds. Remember to write down
the number of stitches and rounds/rows for reference when making the
other glove!!
Work
the opening for the thumb
Start
working in rows to make the opening for the thumb. When you reach the
outer base of the thumb, resume working in rounds.
Work
in rounds until you reach the desired length
Continue
working in rounds until you reach the desired length of the glove.
Next we will make the fingers.
Use
stitch markers
Use
stitch markers to indicate the spaces between the fingers. Use 3
stitch markers. I use yarn of different colour as marker and placed
the 3 markers on one side of the glove. You can use 6 stitch markers
if you wish to define the spaces in both sides of the glove.
Making
holes for the fingers one at a time
Join
yarn to corner of top of glove. Work sc into each sc over one side of
the glove until you reach the first stitch marker on the other side.
Make a dc to join to the corresponding st on the other side of the
glove. This makes a hole for one finger. Continue with sc until you
reach the next stitch marker then make a dc joining to the
corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole
for the next finger. Continue in this manner until you reach the
first sc made and join with a sl st. You now have 4 holes for
fingers. Don't fasten off, you can continue crocheting the first
finger.
Crocheting
each finger
To
crochet each finger you will need to work in rounds around each hole.
Each finger also needs to taper a bit towards the tips. In my case,
for the index finger, I started with 14 sc for 4 rounds, then dec 2
sts at round 5 to make 12 sc, and at round 6, a final round of 12 sc.
Try on the glove as you work to test the fit. When satisfied, fasten
off. The middle finger is worked in the same way. The ring finger and
little finger are crocheted similarly but with less number of
stitches. In my case, I started with 12 sc and decreased to 10 sc at
the fifth and sixth rounds.
For
me, the trickiest part here is crocheting the sc between the fingers.
It gets rather crowded in that area, one just needs to insert the
hook between the sc sts of the previous finger.
Here,
you can also decide whether you'd want shorter or longer or full
fingers for your glove. You can fasten off after one round of sc for
each finger for truly fingerless gloves. If you want to make full
gloves, you'll need to decrease towards the tip of each finger and
close off the tips of the fingers.
Work
around the thumb
Sc
rounds are worked around the hole for the thumb, working one sc in
each row. In my case, I had 20 sc all around. This is worked for 4
rounds, then round 5 is decreased to 16 sc, and crocheted in this
number of sts for the last 3 sts for a total of 8 rounds. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Make
the other glove in the same way. I hope you remembered to take note
of the number of rounds and stitches used for the first glove!!! Good
luck! Happy crocheting!
Sunday, June 18, 2017
Dirty Kitchen and Current Crocheting
Here is a photo of the finished dirty kitchen. This was finished about a week ago. The guys - Kelly and Jessie - have since been busy building a pen for sow Number 3. The roof of the Dirty Kitchen uses g.i. sheets leftover from renovation of the roof of the house. The plumbing still needs to be done for the Dirty Kitchen. A dirty kitchen is an outside kitchen. It can be a simple and quickly built roof over a stove or can be more extravagant ;) like this. Folks often cook in such outside kitchens in rural places, using firewood collected from the hills. There's a clay oven in this dirty kitchen and Penny has used it to bake a coconut pie. At the back on the roof is a 'chimney' for smoke to pass through.
I have been able to do some crocheting as well. At the moment, I am wrangling with a circular vest. It is a very popular design. However, there is something that I want done about such a design. I am looking for more coverage for the front without making the collar of the vest too large. This means varying the length of the vest at the front and back and neck. Then I ran out of yarn! Oh well. ;)
Saturday, June 17, 2017
Rainy Morning Scarf v. 2
I wrote the pattern for a multi-colour version of this scarf and have edited it for clarity. This is the edited version, with tassels added. :) I used yarn in two colours. You can opt for more colours.
Yarn: Ice Yarns Metallic Lurex 195m/100gr, 1 ball lilac colour, 1 ball turquoise colour
Hook: 4.5mm
Measurements: Finished scarf shown is 20" span and 9" tall.
RAINY
MORNING SCARF
by
Fatima Lasay / Crochetology.net
Design
Note: The scarf is crocheted in one piece. After Row 2, the
pattern repetition is established starting at Row 3. The pattern
repetition consists of alternating rows of 2 sc increase and 1 sc
decrease, resulting to an increase of 1 sc in each Row. Decorate the
scarf with tassels at the three points if desired. Happy crocheting!
Tips:
Learn to read the stitches in your work, especially at the beginning
and at the end of each Row. This will allow you to work continuously
without having to count the exact number of stitches made. A common error when crocheting this scarf is failing to recognise the
first and last stitches. Yarn
recommended is DK
weight and above. A larger hook is recommended. Work loosely and
remember to do so especially at the beginning and end of each Row. If
you work too tightly, the scarf may fold over at the edges.
Instructions:
Row
1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch fr hook, turn. (2 sc)
Row
2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, turn. (4 sc)
Row
3: Ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across leaving the last
sc unworked, turn.
Row
4: Sk first sc, sc in each sc across, work 3 sc in last sc, turn.
Row
5 onwards: Rep Rows 3-4. When changing colour, end with rep of Row 4 then join with new colour yarn and proceed to next Row.
When
desired length of scarf is made, fasten off.
The scarf shown is first worked in 66 rows of Lilac yarn, followed by 28 rows of turquoise yarn.
TASSEL
Make one tassel. Here’s how to make a tassel:
1. Cut or fold up a sturdy piece of cardboard that’s about half to one inch longer than the desired length of the tassel you want to make. My tassel is 3.5 inches long so I used a cardboard 4 inches long.
2. Wrap the yarn lengthwise around the cardboard as may times as you need to get a good thick tassel. I wrapped the yarn for my tassel about 25 times.
3. Get another yarn cut to 24 inches and slip this under the wound yarn and pull up towards the top. Now tie this yarn (called a “hanging loop”) securely around the top of the tassel. Slide the tassel off the cardboard then cut the yarn at the base.
4. Cut another piece of yarn about 3 times the length of the tassel and wrap this tightly around all the strands about half to an inch away from the hanging loop of the tassel. Secure the ends of the wrapping yarn by threading them under the strands and down through the center of the tassel. Trim the ends with sharp scissors.
Join tassels to tips of scarf. Weave in all ends and block.
The scarf shown is first worked in 66 rows of Lilac yarn, followed by 28 rows of turquoise yarn.
TASSEL
Make one tassel. Here’s how to make a tassel:
1. Cut or fold up a sturdy piece of cardboard that’s about half to one inch longer than the desired length of the tassel you want to make. My tassel is 3.5 inches long so I used a cardboard 4 inches long.
2. Wrap the yarn lengthwise around the cardboard as may times as you need to get a good thick tassel. I wrapped the yarn for my tassel about 25 times.
3. Get another yarn cut to 24 inches and slip this under the wound yarn and pull up towards the top. Now tie this yarn (called a “hanging loop”) securely around the top of the tassel. Slide the tassel off the cardboard then cut the yarn at the base.
4. Cut another piece of yarn about 3 times the length of the tassel and wrap this tightly around all the strands about half to an inch away from the hanging loop of the tassel. Secure the ends of the wrapping yarn by threading them under the strands and down through the center of the tassel. Trim the ends with sharp scissors.
Join tassels to tips of scarf. Weave in all ends and block.
Tuesday, June 13, 2017
Lace Up Top v. 2
This top is
a variation from the Lace-Up Overdress. This is the second version.
The first version uses ties to join the sides while the second
version has side seams sewn together. The first version has ties for
shoulder straps while this version has a higher neckline and ties at
ends of shoulders for a sabrina neckline or an off-shoulder style.
YOU WILL
NEED:
Yarn:
Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150M/50gr. 100% acrylic. You will need 4
balls of this yarn.
Hook:
3.5mm
Substitute
yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in
solid colour.
Notions:
4 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.
You will
also need yarn needle for sewing side seams together.
MEASUREMENTS:
Fits
Bust 30”-36”
Length:
20”
GAUGE:
16
sc=4”/10cm
DESIGN
NOTES:
Lace-Up Top
v2 is crocheted in two pieces, Front and Back. Work commences at the
bottom and proceeds to the top and armholes are shaped. Edging is
worked all around the piece except the neckline. Side seams are sewn
together leaving the bottom undone to make side slits. The neckline
is made by sewing Front and Back points at the neck/shoulder and the
ends of shoulder seams joined together with ties. Ties are decorated
with wooden beads.
To make a
larger top, start with a foundation ch in multiples of 12 +4 and add
pattern repetitions after Row 39 to make a longer piece. Sew side
seams accordingly to accommodate larger armholes.
INSTRUCTIONS:
FRONT
Ch 72 +4
(count as 1 dc)
Row 1:
Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (73 dc made)
Row 2:
Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across; ch 5,
turn.
Row 3:
*Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5,
rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc
in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 4:
Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in
next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep
fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch,
ch 5, turn.
Row 5:
Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next
5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in
last sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 6:
Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc,
ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across,
ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5,
turn.
Row 7:
Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc
in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a cross, ending last rep with ch 2,
dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.
Row 8:
5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, in
next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending
with ch 5, sc in last 5-ch lp, 5 dc in 5-ch turning ch, dc in third
ch of same 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Row 9: 3
dc in first dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in 5-ch lp, *ch 5,
sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc,
sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with
ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 4 dc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch
1, turn.
Row 10:
Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc
in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last
3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.
Row 11:
Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2,
3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending
last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 12:
Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp,
*ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice,
rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch,
ch 5, turn.
Row
13-32: Rep Rows 3-12. End Row 32 with sc in third ch of 5-ch
turning ch, ch 1, turn.
SHAPE
THE ARMHOLES/NECKLINE:
Row 33:
Sl st in first 2 ch, sc in next ch, *in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc
in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with
11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch lp, turn.
Row 34:
Sl st in first 2 dc, *sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2
dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, rep fr *
across, end with sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc
in next dc, turn.
Row 35:
Sl St in first 3 dc, sc in next dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp]
twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last
rep with ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, turn.
Rows 36
– 37: Rep Rows 11-12.
Rows 38
– 39: Rep Row 3-4. At the end of Row 39, ch 1, turn.
Evenly
crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each
3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the
bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of
the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue
working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows:
sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from *
across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc
evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first
side. Fasten off.
BACK
Same as in
Front.
Block Front
and Back pieces before joining with ties.
SHOULDER
TIES
Ch 100 to
make tie for shoulder of overdress. Make 2 ties.
ASSEMBLY
AND FINISHING
Sew
together shoulder seams at 3 dc sts in middle of first and last 7-dc
group at each side of the top. Use ties to tie together Front and
Back through 5-ch turning ch/ch2-dc at Row 38.
Sew side
seams together along Row 25 through Row 9.
Weave in
all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels.
Lace-Up Top Free Pattern
A variation of the Lace-Up Overdress,
this top consists of two sections, Front and Back, joined together by
weaving ties along the side seams. The shoulder straps are adjustable
ties. Strips of lace are sewn across the Front and Back hem. Ends of
ties are decorated with coloured wooden beads.
YOU WILL
NEED:
Yarn:
Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150M/50gr. 100% acrylic.
Hook:
3.5mm
Substitute
yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in
solid colour.
Notions:
12 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.
You will
also need matching colour lace at least 2 inches wide and 34 inches
long.
MEASUREMENTS:
Fits
Bust 30”-34”
Length:
21”
GAUGE:
16
sc=4”/10cm
DESIGN
NOTES: To make a top in your size, start with a foundation ch in
multiples of 12 +4. For a top to fit Bust 42”, you may start with
ch 84 +4. To make a longer top, rep Rows 3-12 twice.
INSTRUCTIONS:
FRONT
Ch 60 +4
(count as 1 dc).
Row 1:
Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 5, turn. (61 dc made)
Row 2:
Sk first 2 dc, sc in next dc, *ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc,
rep fr * across, end with ch 2, dc in last dc,
ch 3, turn.
Row 3:
5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc
in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with 6 dc
in last 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.
Row 4: 3
dc in first dc, *sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch
lp, ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc,
rep fr * across, end last rep with 4 dc in last 3-ch turning ch, ch
1, turn.
Row 5:
Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc
in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last
3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.
Row 6:
Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2, 3dc-CL
in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last
rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 7:
Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp,
*ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice,
rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch,
ch 5, turn.
Row 8:
*Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5,
rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc
in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 9:
Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in
next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep
fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch,
ch 5, turn.
Row 10:
Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next
5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in
last sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 11:
Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc,
ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across,
ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5,
turn.
Row 12:
Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc
in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a
cross, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.
Row
13-22: Rep Row 3-12, ending
last Row with ch 1, turn.
SHAPE
THE ARMHOLES
Row 23:
Sl st in 2-ch sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch
5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep
fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 3 dc in 5-ch turning
ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 24:
Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next
dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr *
across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in top
of 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 25:
Sc in 2-ch sp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next
dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with sc
in third ch of last 5-ch lp, turn.
Row 26:
Sl st in each of next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in
next 5-ch lp, *ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, [ch
5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in
third ch of last 5-ch lp, ch 5, turn.
Row 27:
*Sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc
in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *
across, end with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.
Row 28 –
31: Rep Rows 3-6.
MAKE THE
NECKLINE:
Row 32:
Sc in first dc, *[ch 3, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across,
end with ch 3, sc in third ch of last 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 33:
Sc in first sc, *3 sc in next 3-ch sp, sc in next sc, rep fr *
across, ending with sc in last sc, ch 1, sc in same sc then continue
working along side of piece as follows:
Evenly
crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each
3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the
bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of
the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue
working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows:
sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from *
across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc
evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first
side. When you reach the last Row, work (sc, ch 1, sc) in the last
sc, then finally, make the neckline trim as follows: sc in each of
next 2 sc, *picot, sc in each of next 3 sc, rep from * across, ending
with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last sc. Fasten off.
BACK
Same as in
Front.
Block Front
and Back pieces before joining with ties.
SIDE
TIES
Ch 250 to
make tie for side seam of overdress. Weave the tie in corresponding
holes along side of overdress joining Front and Back sides together.
Start joining from the top (at the armpit) downwards.
Make
another tie for the other side of the overdress.
SHOULDER
STRAPS
Join yarn
with sl st to corner of neckline at Front. Ch 50, fasten off. Tie to
corresponding hole at corner at Back. Rep for the other shoulder
strap.
FINISHING
Weave
in all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels.
Sew matching colour lace over the first row of Front. Do the same for
the Back.
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