Crocheting a Pair of Fingerless Gloves

For this project I used SuperSock by Ice Yarns. The yarn is quite fine (it is fingering weight yarn at 400 meters in 100 grams) so I used two strands held together and a 4mm crochet hook. Here is a documentation of how I made a pair of fingerless gloves. The number of stitches you need will depend on your own size. Remember to take note of the number of rounds and stitches you use since you will be making a second glove in the exact same manner.

Start at the top

Start at the top of your hand just at the base of the fingers. Crochet a long chain and sl st to make a ring that is large enough to fit around the hand – not too loose and not too tight.

Crochet several rounds of sc sts until you reach the inner base of the thumb. At this point you will need to work a gap for the thumb. You do this by working in rows instead of rounds. Remember to write down the number of stitches and rounds/rows for reference when making the other glove!!

Work the opening for the thumb

Start working in rows to make the opening for the thumb. When you reach the outer base of the thumb, resume working in rounds.

Work in rounds until you reach the desired length

Continue working in rounds until you reach the desired length of the glove. Next we will make the fingers.

Use stitch markers

Use stitch markers to indicate the spaces between the fingers. Use 3 stitch markers. I use yarn of different colour as marker and placed the 3 markers on one side of the glove. You can use 6 stitch markers if you wish to define the spaces in both sides of the glove.

Making holes for the fingers one at a time

Join yarn to corner of top of glove. Work sc into each sc over one side of the glove until you reach the first stitch marker on the other side. Make a dc to join to the corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole for one finger. Continue with sc until you reach the next stitch marker then make a dc joining to the corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole for the next finger. Continue in this manner until you reach the first sc made and join with a sl st. You now have 4 holes for fingers. Don't fasten off, you can continue crocheting the first finger.

Crocheting each finger

To crochet each finger you will need to work in rounds around each hole. Each finger also needs to taper a bit towards the tips. In my case, for the index finger, I started with 14 sc for 4 rounds, then dec 2 sts at round 5 to make 12 sc, and at round 6, a final round of 12 sc. Try on the glove as you work to test the fit. When satisfied, fasten off. The middle finger is worked in the same way. The ring finger and little finger are crocheted similarly but with less number of stitches. In my case, I started with 12 sc and decreased to 10 sc at the fifth and sixth rounds.

For me, the trickiest part here is crocheting the sc between the fingers. It gets rather crowded in that area, one just needs to insert the hook between the sc sts of the previous finger.

Here, you can also decide whether you'd want shorter or longer or full fingers for your glove. You can fasten off after one round of sc for each finger for truly fingerless gloves. If you want to make full gloves, you'll need to decrease towards the tip of each finger and close off the tips of the fingers.

Work around the thumb

Sc rounds are worked around the hole for the thumb, working one sc in each row. In my case, I had 20 sc all around. This is worked for 4 rounds, then round 5 is decreased to 16 sc, and crocheted in this number of sts for the last 3 sts for a total of 8 rounds. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Make the other glove in the same way. I hope you remembered to take note of the number of rounds and stitches used for the first glove!!! Good luck! Happy crocheting!

Dirty Kitchen and Current Crocheting

Here is a photo of the finished dirty kitchen. This was finished about a week ago. The guys - Kelly and Jessie - have since been busy building a pen for sow Number 3. The roof of the Dirty Kitchen uses g.i. sheets leftover from renovation of the roof of the house. The plumbing still needs to be done for the Dirty Kitchen. A dirty kitchen is an outside kitchen. It can be a simple and quickly built roof over a stove or can be more extravagant ;) like this. Folks often cook in such outside kitchens in rural places, using firewood collected from the hills. There's a clay oven in this dirty kitchen and Penny has used it to bake a coconut pie. At the back on the roof is a 'chimney' for smoke to pass through.

I have been able to do some crocheting as well. At the moment, I am wrangling with a circular vest. It is a very popular design. However, there is something that I want done about such a design. I am looking for more coverage for the front without making the collar of the vest too large. This means varying the length of the vest at the front and back and neck. Then I ran out of yarn! Oh well. ;)

Rainy Morning Scarf v. 2

I wrote the pattern for a multi-colour version of this scarf and have edited it for clarity. This is the edited version, with tassels added. :) I used yarn in two colours. You can opt for more colours.

Yarn: Ice Yarns Metallic Lurex 195m/100gr, 1 ball lilac colour, 1 ball turquoise colour

Hook: 4.5mm

Measurements: Finished scarf shown is 20" span and 9" tall.

RAINY MORNING SCARF

by Fatima Lasay / Crochetology.net

Design Note: The scarf is crocheted in one piece. After Row 2, the pattern repetition is established starting at Row 3. The pattern repetition consists of alternating rows of 2 sc increase and 1 sc decrease, resulting to an increase of 1 sc in each Row. Decorate the scarf with tassels at the three points if desired. Happy crocheting!

Tips: Learn to read the stitches in your work, especially at the beginning and at the end of each Row. This will allow you to work continuously without having to count the exact number of stitches made. A common error when crocheting this scarf is failing to recognise the first and last stitches.  Yarn recommended is DK weight and above. A larger hook is recommended. Work loosely and remember to do so especially at the beginning and end of each Row. If you work too tightly, the scarf may fold over at the edges.

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch fr hook, turn. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, turn. (4 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across leaving the last sc unworked, turn.

Row 4: Sk first sc, sc in each sc across, work 3 sc in last sc, turn.

Row 5 onwards: Rep Rows 3-4. When changing colour, end with rep of Row 4 then join with new colour yarn and proceed to next Row.

When desired length of scarf is made, fasten off. 

The scarf shown is first worked in 66 rows of Lilac yarn, followed by 28 rows of turquoise yarn.

TASSEL

Make one tassel. Here’s how to make a tassel:

1. Cut or fold up a sturdy piece of cardboard that’s about half to one inch longer than the desired length of the tassel you want to make. My tassel is 3.5 inches long so I used a cardboard 4 inches long.

2. Wrap the yarn lengthwise around the cardboard as may times as you need to get a good thick tassel. I wrapped the yarn for my tassel about 25 times.

3. Get another yarn cut to 24 inches and slip this under the wound yarn and pull up towards the top. Now tie this yarn (called a “hanging loop”) securely around the top of the tassel. Slide the tassel off the cardboard then cut the yarn at the base.

4. Cut another piece of yarn about 3 times the length of the tassel and wrap this tightly around all the strands about half to an inch away from the hanging loop of the tassel. Secure the ends of the wrapping yarn by threading them under the strands and down through the center of the tassel. Trim the ends with sharp scissors.

Join tassels to tips of scarf. Weave in all ends and block.

Lace Up Top v. 2

This top is a variation from the Lace-Up Overdress. This is the second version. The first version uses ties to join the sides while the second version has side seams sewn together. The first version has ties for shoulder straps while this version has a higher neckline and ties at ends of shoulders for a sabrina neckline or an off-shoulder style.

YOU WILL NEED:

Yarn: Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150M/50gr. 100% acrylic. You will need 4 balls of this yarn.

Hook: 3.5mm

Substitute yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in solid colour.

Notions: 4 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.

You will also need yarn needle for sewing side seams together.

MEASUREMENTS:

Fits Bust 30”-36”

Length: 20”

GAUGE:

16 sc=4”/10cm

DESIGN NOTES:

Lace-Up Top v2 is crocheted in two pieces, Front and Back. Work commences at the bottom and proceeds to the top and armholes are shaped. Edging is worked all around the piece except the neckline. Side seams are sewn together leaving the bottom undone to make side slits. The neckline is made by sewing Front and Back points at the neck/shoulder and the ends of shoulder seams joined together with ties. Ties are decorated with wooden beads.

To make a larger top, start with a foundation ch in multiples of 12 +4 and add pattern repetitions after Row 39 to make a longer piece. Sew side seams accordingly to accommodate larger armholes.

INSTRUCTIONS:

FRONT

Ch 72 +4 (count as 1 dc)

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (73 dc made)

Row 2: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across; ch 5, turn.

Row 3: *Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 5: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 7: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a cross, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 8: 5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in last 5-ch lp, 5 dc in 5-ch turning ch, dc in third ch of same 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 9: 3 dc in first dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 4 dc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 11: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 13-32: Rep Rows 3-12. End Row 32 with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

SHAPE THE ARMHOLES/NECKLINE:

Row 33: Sl st in first 2 ch, sc in next ch, *in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch lp, turn.

Row 34: Sl st in first 2 dc, *sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, rep fr * across, end with sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, turn.

Row 35: Sl St in first 3 dc, sc in next dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, turn.

Rows 36 – 37: Rep Rows 11-12.

Rows 38 – 39: Rep Row 3-4. At the end of Row 39, ch 1, turn.

Evenly crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each 3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows: sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first side. Fasten off.

BACK

Same as in Front.

Block Front and Back pieces before joining with ties.

SHOULDER TIES

Ch 100 to make tie for shoulder of overdress. Make 2 ties.

ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING

Sew together shoulder seams at 3 dc sts in middle of first and last 7-dc group at each side of the top. Use ties to tie together Front and Back through 5-ch turning ch/ch2-dc at Row 38.

Sew side seams together along Row 25 through Row 9.

Weave in all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels.

Lace-Up Top Free Pattern

A variation of the Lace-Up Overdress, this top consists of two sections, Front and Back, joined together by weaving ties along the side seams. The shoulder straps are adjustable ties. Strips of lace are sewn across the Front and Back hem. Ends of ties are decorated with coloured wooden beads.

YOU WILL NEED:

Yarn: Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150M/50gr. 100% acrylic.

Hook: 3.5mm

Substitute yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in solid colour.

Notions: 12 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.

You will also need matching colour lace at least 2 inches wide and 34 inches long.

MEASUREMENTS:

Fits Bust 30”-34”

Length: 21”

GAUGE:

16 sc=4”/10cm

DESIGN NOTES: To make a top in your size, start with a foundation ch in multiples of 12 +4. For a top to fit Bust 42”, you may start with ch 84 +4. To make a longer top, rep Rows 3-12 twice.

INSTRUCTIONS:

FRONT

Ch 60 +4 (count as 1 dc).

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 5, turn. (61 dc made)

Row 2: Sk first 2 dc, sc in next dc, *ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, end with ch 2, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: 5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with 6 dc in last 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 4: 3 dc in first dc, *sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, rep fr * across, end last rep with 4 dc in last 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 8: *Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 10: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 12: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a cross, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 13-22: Rep Row 3-12, ending last Row with ch 1, turn.

SHAPE THE ARMHOLES

Row 23: Sl st in 2-ch sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 3 dc in 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 24: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in top of 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Sc in 2-ch sp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with sc in third ch of last 5-ch lp, turn.

Row 26: Sl st in each of next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in third ch of last 5-ch lp, ch 5, turn.

Row 27: *Sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 28 – 31: Rep Rows 3-6.

MAKE THE NECKLINE:

Row 32: Sc in first dc, *[ch 3, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 3, sc in third ch of last 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 33: Sc in first sc, *3 sc in next 3-ch sp, sc in next sc, rep fr * across, ending with sc in last sc, ch 1, sc in same sc then continue working along side of piece as follows:

Evenly crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each 3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows: sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first side. When you reach the last Row, work (sc, ch 1, sc) in the last sc, then finally, make the neckline trim as follows: sc in each of next 2 sc, *picot, sc in each of next 3 sc, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last sc. Fasten off.

BACK

Same as in Front.

Block Front and Back pieces before joining with ties.

SIDE TIES

Ch 250 to make tie for side seam of overdress. Weave the tie in corresponding holes along side of overdress joining Front and Back sides together. Start joining from the top (at the armpit) downwards.

Make another tie for the other side of the overdress.

SHOULDER STRAPS

Join yarn with sl st to corner of neckline at Front. Ch 50, fasten off. Tie to corresponding hole at corner at Back. Rep for the other shoulder strap.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels. Sew matching colour lace over the first row of Front. Do the same for the Back.

Lace-Up Overdress Free Crochet Pattern

Lace Up Overdress

Crochet this allover lace garment to wear over a light sheer dress for summer and spring. The pattern works up quickly, employs simple shaping and the garment can be adjusted to fit a range of sizes via the ties along the sides and the adjustable shoulder straps. Make the Lace Up Overdress longer. Make it shorter to make a top. Can also be worn as a beach cover-up. Instructions include modifications to make a shorter dress, a longer dress and a top. Enjoy!

YOU WILL NEED:

Yarn: Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150m/50gr. 100% acrylic (6 balls)

Hook: 3.5mm

Substitute yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in solid colour, at least 984 yards / 900 meters.

Notions: 12 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.

MEASUREMENTS:

Fits Bust 30”-36”

Length: 39”

To make a shorter dress: crochet Rows 1-22, ending Row 22 with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn. Continue to Rows 33-42, ending last row with ch 1, turn. Then finish off with Rows 63-73, making a total of 43 rows.

To make a longer dress: crochet Rows 1-12, then continue with reps of Rows 3-12 until you have 42 rows, ending Row 42 with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn. Then continue by following the pattern from Row 33 onwards, making a total of 83 rows.

To make a top: crochet Rows 1-12, ending Row 12 with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn. Continue to Rows 33-42 ending last row with ch 1, turn. Then proceed to Rows 63-73, making a total of 33 Rows.

Free Patterns of Tops based on this pattern can be found:

Lace-Up Top Free Pattern 

Lace Up Top v. 2

 

GAUGE:

16 sc=4”/10cm

DESIGN NOTES:

Lace Up Overdress is crocheted in two pieces, front and back. Work commences at the bottom and proceeds to the top, in rows, shaping the waist and armholes along the way. Edging is worked all around the piece. Ties are crocheted separately and woven along the sides joining front and back pieces together. Shoulder straps are crocheted from the front and tied at the back.

INSTRUCTIONS:

FRONT

Ch 72 +4 (count as 1 dc)

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (73 dc made)

Row 2: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across; ch 5, turn.

Row 3: *Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 5: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 7: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a cross, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 8: 5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in last 5-ch lp, 5 dc in 5-ch turning ch, dc in third ch of same 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 9: 3 dc in first dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 4 dc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 11: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 13-32: Rep Rows 3-12. End Row 32 with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

SHAPE THE WAIST:

Row 33: Sl st in first 2 ch, sc in next ch, *in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch lp, turn.

Row 34: Sl st in first 2 dc, *sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, rep fr * across, end with sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, turn.

Row 35: Sl St in first 3 dc, sc in next dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, turn.

Rows 36 – 37: Rep Rows 11-12.

Rows 38 – 57: Rep Row 3-12.

Row 58 – 62: Rep Rows 3-7. End Row 62 with ch 1, turn.

SHAPE THE ARMHOLES

Row 63: Sl st in 2-ch sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 3 dc in 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 64: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in top of 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 65: Sc in 2-ch sp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with sc in third ch of last 5-ch lp, turn.

Row 66: Sl st in each of next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in third ch of last 5-ch lp, ch 5, turn.

Row 67: *Sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 68 – 71: Rep Rows 8-11.

MAKE THE NECKLINE:

Row 72: Sc in first dc, *[ch 3, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 3, sc in third ch of last 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 73: Sc in first sc, *3 sc in next 3-ch sp, sc in next sc, rep fr * across, ending with sc in last sc, ch 1, sc in same sc then continue working along side of piece as follows:

Evenly crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each 3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows: sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first side. When you reach the last Row, work (sc, ch 1, sc) in the last sc, then finally, make the neckline trim as follows: sc in each of next 2 sc, *picot, sc in each of next 3 sc, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last sc. Fasten off.

BACK

Same as in Front.

Block Front and Back pieces before joining with ties.

SIDE TIES

Ch 350 to make tie for side seam of overdress. Weave the tie in corresponding holes along side of overdress joining Front and Back sides together. Start joining from the top (at the armpit) downwards, leaving Rows 1-26 unjoined.

Make another tie for the other side of the overdress.

SHOULDER STRAPS

Join yarn with sl st to corner of neckline at Front. Ch 50, fasten off. Tie to corresponding hole at corner at Back. Rep for the other shoulder strap.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels.

Pretty Lace Bookmark

I wrote this pattern in 2012. It has been lost and now I am able to repost it. Please let me know if you find any errors in this pattern. Enjoy!

From a lace pattern, you can make a pretty bookmark just add a tassel or fringe with decorative beads. This bookmark is crocheted with cotton thread size 8 using a steep crochet hook size 1mm. Make these bookmarks for yourself or as gifts or to sell in your handmade store.

Errata: Row 4 should read: Double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 3, single crochet in 3-chain space, chain 5, single crochet in next 3-chain space, ch 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 5, turn.

Special Stitches:
Double crochet together over next 3 double crochet dc3tog: [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 3 times (4 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.

Pretty Lacy Bookmarks
 
Instructions:

Chain 7, slip stitch in first chain to make a ring.
Row 1: Chain 3, 4 double crochet in ring, chain 5, turn.
Row 2: Double crochet in first double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in next double crochet, chain 3, double crochet in same double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in top of 3-chain, chain 5, turn.
Row 3: Double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 3, single crochet in 3-chain space, chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 5, turn.
Row 4: Double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 3, single crochet in 3-chain space, chain 5, single crochet in next 3-chain space, ch 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 5, turn.

Row 5: Treble crochet in first double crochet, double crochet in each of next 3 double crochet, chain 3, single crochet in 5-chain space, chain 3, double crochet in each of next 3 double crochet, treble crochet in next double crochet, chain 8, turn.

Row 6: Treble crochet in first double crochet, double crochet together over next 3 double crochet, in 3-chain space make (2 half double crochet, single crochet), single crochet in next single crochet, chain 7, slip stitch in single crochet to make a loop, in next 3-chain space make (single crochet, 2 half double crochet), double crochet together over next 3 double crochet, treble crochet in next double crochet, chain 6, turn.

Row 7: Double crochet in treble crochet, in 7-chain loop make 5 double crochet, chain 2, slip stich on 8-chain loop, chain 2, turn.

Row 8: Double crochet in first double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in next double crochet, chain 3, double crochet in same double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in last double crochet, chain 2, slip stitch in 6-chain loop, chain 2, turn.

Row 9-17: Repeat rows 3-8.

Row 18-22: Repeat rows 3-7.

Row 23: Double crochet in first double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in next double crochet, chain 3, double crochet in same double crochet, 2 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in last double crochet, chain 2, single crochet in 6-chain loop. Continue to border as follows:

Border: Make (chain 3, picot) evenly all around the edges of the bookmark, except at the 7-chain ring at the tip of the bookmark where you make only single crochet without picot.
Fasten off.
 

Starting Up (again) - An Update

The renovation of our roof started around the second week of March and ended in the second week of May. The original roof is made up of nipa palm fronds which rotted easily and leaked quite badly. Now the roof is longspan hi-rib galvanised iron sheets with 5mm foam insulation. The design of the roof was also changed. The roof has 4 gables that serve as air vents to keep the house cool. Nipa is cooler of course but the maintenance of nipa, especially of a roof this large (about 250 square meters) is very difficult.

So now I don't have to run around with basins, buckets and umbrellas looking for leaks whenever it rains. I have also just managed to clean up and put things back in their proper places.Such a major disruption has made it difficult for me to get back to crochet sooner. During this time I have been busy drawing designs and plans for the renovation of the pigpens (a total of about 80 square meters). Currently, I have one boar (Pinky) and two sows (Brownie and Number 3). If Brownie is pregnant she is expected to farrow by the end of June. Hopefully, Number 3 is pregnant and is expected to farrow in September.

The old Dirty Kitchen with nipa palm fronds for roofing material. Next to it is Number 3's pen.

The new Dirty Kitchen in progress using leftover roofing material from the house.

My plans for rebuilding the pigpens.

The rebuilding of the Dirty Kitchen started almost immediately after the roof renovation and I have been busy overseeing that as well. A "Dirty Kitchen" is an outside kitchen that uses a firewood stove. We also have the big clay oven in the Dirty Kitchen. The Dirty Kitchen is also often used when cooking for fiestas and parties. Since firewood is used for cooking, I would also like to use the Dirty Kitchen as a smoker --- fish, sausages and meat can be hung above the stove to smoke them.

Then yesterday, after numerous failed attempts, I was able to get back to crocheting.

I am trying to make an overdress - a lace garment meant to be worn over a light dress. It is based on a design I made some time ago. I am using a 3.5mm crochet hook and acrylic yarn called "Fettuccia" by Ice Yarns. This overdress is designed to be adjustable for a range of sizes. This will take some time but I hope to be able to write the pattern for this new crochet design.

I am doing reasonably well. Every week I go for acupuncture which works well for me. Later, I hope to be able to find some time to return to painting and writing poetry.

Crochet a Sock

Some time ago, I crocheted a sock, in search of the simplest construction method possible with crochet. I figured out one way which starts at the toe and proceeds upwards.

Here is a documentation of the process of crocheting a sock which I hope will help you to understand shaping for the feet and in as a consequence, be motivated to experiment and develop other sock designs as well as crochet new related items such as crochet slippers, crochet shoes, fishnet stockings and ankle socks. Happy crocheting!




Design Notes: My socks are for feet 9.5” long and about 4” wide. I used Yarn: Antipilling Acrylic by Ice Yarns (3:Light/4-ply) and Hook: 4mm. For a pair of calf-length socks I used 80 grams (or 200 meters) of yarn.

Start at the toes

I started with a foundation of 9 +2 ch. This foundation chain is about 2” long and is not meant to be the same width as the toes of your feet. If you use smaller or bigger hook and yarn, the foundation chain may need to be of different length. The basic formula for me is a foundation chain that is about the same width as the three middle toes of your feet.





Next, dc in fourth ch fr hook; dc in each of next 6 ch; 7 dc in last ch (this allows you to turn to the opposite side of the foundation ch; dc in each of next 7 ch; in next ch make 6 dc; sl st in first ch to join into a round. This completes the first round of the sock.

Continue to make the foot of the sock

Ch 2 (this does not count as dc), dc in same ch where sl st was made in first round; dc in each dc all around, ending with sl st in top of 2-ch to join; (28 dc made); Ch 2 and continue in the same manner as described. I made 16 rounds to fit the length from the toes to the point where the leg joins the foot. Remember to crochet tightly and to make the length of the sock a bit shorter than your foot since the yarn will stretch.

Now make the heel of the sock

To shape the heel of the sock you will be working in rows instead of rounds. First you need to determine how wide this row is going to be. You can determine this by putting the sock on and measuring over the top of the foot how many stitches from one side of the heel to the next side. The photo below shows half of this length (in thick white line).




On my foot, this length measures about 12 stitches. So I subtract that from the total number of stitches around the sock (which is 28 stitches) and I get 16 stitches. This means, the heel should be made in rows of 16 stitches.

So, without fastening off, you just continue on to make the heel as follows: ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in each of next 15 dc (16 dc made); ch 2, turn, dc in first dc, dc in each of the next 15 dc, etc.

The next question is, how many rows should the heel be? Here you just need to measure the length of your heel bearing in mind to crochet a bit shorter since the yarn will stretch when worn.

In my case, the heel is 7 rows in length. So I made 7 rows of dc for the heel and, as shown in the photos below, at the last row, fold the heel in half and sl st join along the last row. This joins the seam at the back of the heel. Fasten off.

So at this point, you should have something that looks like a slipper. The next (and last) thing you need to do now is join the yarn to a dc at the back of the heel and work the leg of the sock in rounds.

The leg of the sock

This is worked in rounds in a manner as earlier established, starting the round with ch 2. There are two questions I encountered here: first, how long should the sock be and second, should I shape the leg of the sock?

The first question answered: I decided to make mid-calf length socks, that’s some 18 rounds of dc, or about 7.5” length.

The second question answered: I decided to shape the leg of the sock where my leg narrows the most at the heel, this is at round 4 of the leg of the sock. You may wish to start decreasing at the first round. Decreasing means decreasing the number of stitches with dc2tog evenly all around over 3 rounds, ending the last dec round with 36 dc. Then continuing the rounds with this number of stitches. This means, from the heel I had 48 stitches around the leg and then reduced that to 36 stitches around the leg. I decided to do this so that the sock tapers and tightens at the calf and won’t fall down or slide off. Here are photos showing the leg of the sock in progress.









And there you have it – how to crochet a sock. You can adjust the number of stitches and rows and rounds presented here to make a sock in your desired size.

Once you know how to crochet a pair of socks, you can explore the basic pattern with different stitches and shapes, perhaps to make a pair of lacey stockings, a Christmas sock to decorate the Christmas tree, a pair of bedroom slippers, etc.


Enjoy! Happy crocheting!

Cowl-Hat Experiment

 

I tried a small experiment a few days ago - a cowl that can also be used as a hat. I used cotton-cashmere yarn that I dyed a couple of months back.  My notes are below as well as progress photos and the finished item. I am not very happy with it as a hat but very pleased with it as a cowl. I think a much better design can be made.