New Projects for 2017

Here are some of the projects I finished recently. I used Ice Yarns for all these projects. The woven labels are from It's Mine Labels. Enjoy! :)

Cardigan using Antipilling Colour and Magic Fine (for trimming) both from Ice Yarns. The pattern is from a Japanese magazine and the hook I used is 4mm.

This is a jacket I made using 3.5mm hook and Summer Jeans Blue from Ice Yarns. The pattern is from Garnstudio.com called Whispers.

This is a circle jacket that I made by modifying a doily pattern. I used 4.5mm hook and Rainbow and Magic Fine Yarns by Ice Yarns.

White Feathers Free Crochet Pattern

White Feathers

 

You will need:

COCA by Lotus Yarns in natural white colour, 90% cotton/10% cashmere 320 meters/100 grams (150 grams needed for size S)

Crochet hook size 4mm

Design Notes: The top is crocheted in two pieces Front and Back. Each piece is worked from the bottom up. Shoulder and side seams are joined together using sc stitches worked on the wrong side. Model shown is in size S (Bust 32”), 21” long. Larger sizes may be made by starting with the appropriate length of foundation chain done in multiples of 8 +1.

Special Stitches used in this pattern:

2dc-CL (2 double crochet cluster): Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, make 2 dc in indicated stitch, yo, pull yarn through all loops on hook.

V-Stitch: In stitch indicated make (dc, ch 2, dc).

Instructions:

Front:

Ch 80 +1 (or make a foundation chain in multiples of 8 +1 that is half your hip size measured loosely, not tight)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in second ch fr hook, sc in each ch across, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.

Row 2: Sk first two sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, dc in next sc, rep fr * across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in first sc, *ch 2, sk next dc, in next dc make (2dc-CL, ch 2, 2dc-CL), ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending with sc in last dc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.

Row 4: Dc in first sc, *ch 2, sc in 2-ch sp bet 2dc-CLs, ch 2, V-stitch in next sc, rep fr * across, ending with (dc, ch 1, dc) in last sc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.

Row 5: 2dc-CL in first dc, *ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2, in 2-ch sp of V-stitch make (2dc-CL, ch 2, 2dc-CL), rep fr * across, ending with (2dc-CL, ch 1, dc) in last dc; ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first dc, *ch 2, V-stitch in next sc, ch 2, sc in 2-ch sp bet 2dc-CLs, rep fr * across, ending with ch 2, sc in last dc; ch 3 (count as dc), turn.

Row 7: Dc in first 2-ch sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next 2-ch sp, ch 1, dc in next 2-ch sp, dc in next sc, dc in next 2-ch sp, ch 1, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, dc in last 2-ch sp, dc in last sc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.

Row 8: Dc in first 1-ch sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, dc in last dc; ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Rep fr Row 3 onwards until desired length is reached, ending with either Row 4 or Row 6. Fasten off.

Back:

Same as in Front.

Assembly and Finishing:

Working on the Wrong Side, join side seams with sc leaving holes for arms. Join the shoulder seams using same method. Fasten off. Block to measurements.

Lace Shorts Free Pattern

I made these shorts by modifying a capelet pattern. Give it a try and let me know if you have any questions or if you find any errors. Cheers! :)

 

 

Promenade Lace

by Fatima Lasay /Crochetology.net

You will need:

Natural Linen by Lotus yarns, 260 meters/100 grams (2 hanks or 200 grams for size S)

Crochet hook size 4mm

Measurements: Model shown in size S (hip circumference 34”)

Length: 16”

Length of crotch and overall length of shorts may be modified. Hip circumference may be modified by beginning with a foundation chain made in multiples of 7 sts.

Design Notes: The shorts are crocheted in the round starting at the waist, increasing towards the bottom. The crotch is made by joining front and back sides of the shorts in the middle. Each leg is then crocheted in the round separately. Waist band is crocheted over the foundation chain in the round. Ties are woven along the waist band and ends decorated with beads.

Instructions:

Ch a multiple of 7 sts to make a chain that goes around the hips comfortably, not too tight not too loose. Sl st in first ch to make a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in first ch, *ch 4, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 4, sk 3 ch, sc in next ch, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next 4-ch lp, 8 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st in second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, *dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 4: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 4 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 5: Sl st in each st to go to second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk 2 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 6: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next 4-ch lp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sc in last 4-ch lp, dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, *sk next (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, dc in next dc, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 8: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 9: Ch 6 ( count as dc, ch 3), *sk first 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, dc between next 2 sc, ch 3, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 10: Sl st in 3-ch sp, *8 dc in next 4-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch sp, ch 4, sc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with 8 dc in last 4-ch lp, sc in last 3-ch sp, ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 11: Sl st in first and second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc, ] 5 times, *in 4-ch lp make (dc, ch 1, dc), sk next dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 12: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, ch 3, sk next 1-ch sp, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sk last 1-ch sp, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 13: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, in next 3-ch lp make (dc, ch 1, dc), ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 14: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3, 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next 3-ch sp, 4 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 3-ch sp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sc in next 3-ch sp, 4 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 3-ch sp, 1 dc in next 4-ch sp, sl st in next dc to join.

Rnd 15: Ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), *dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, ch 1, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 16: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, ch 3, sc in next 2-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 17: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 1, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 18: Sl st up to the second ch of 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, sc in next 4-ch lp, *5 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 4-ch lp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, sc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with 5 dc in last 1-ch sp, sc in last 4-ch lp, dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 19: Sl st in next dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, *dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 times, sk (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 20: Sl st in 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 21: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, in next 3-ch lp make (dc, ch 2, dc), ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 22: Sl st up to second ch of 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sk 4-ch sp, 6 dc in next 2-ch sp, sk 4-ch sp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sk 4-ch sp, 6 dc in last 2-ch sp, (place stitch marker here), dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join. Fasten off.

NOTE: If you want a longer crotch for the shorts, continue with Rnds 23-25 (as in Rnds 1-3 of instructions for leg of shorts below, end the crotch with rep of Rnd 22, join the crotch at corresponding points and proceed with legs as below)

Join the crotch: Lay the garment flat with the stitch marker in the middle. Count the number of fans to determine the exact location of the corresponding point (bet 2 dc) at the back with the stich marker. Join these two points together by joining yarn with sl st, then proceed to making one leg of the shorts as follows:

Rnd 1: Sl st up to the second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, *dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with dc, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 2: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, [sc in next 1-ch sp, ch 3] 2 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 2, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 22.

Rnd 5-6: Rep Rnds 1-2 of leg of shorts. Fasten off. Rep for the other leg.

NOTE: If you want longer legs for your shorts rep Rnds 3-6 of leg of shorts.

Make the waistband:

Rnd 1: Join yarn with sl st to ch at waist. Make 3 sc in each 2-ch sp, sc in each sc, 4 sc in each 3-ch sp, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (count as dc), sc in each sc all around, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep fr * all around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc, 3 sc in each 3-ch sp all around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Make ties:

Ch 250 or more to make suitable length of chain to go all around the hips with extra for tying. Fasten off. Weave ties through 3-ch sps around waistband. Decorate ends of ties with beads. Block to measurements.

I'm Too Misty (Free Crochet Pattern)

You will need:

Yarn: Sugarfree Cottonberry (Substitute with Sport Weight /5-ply Yarn)

Hook: 4mm crochet hook

Measurements: Fits Bust 32”-34” (36”-38”/40”-42”)

Length: 21” (22.5”/22.5”)

Gauge: 1 patt rep = 1.75” (W) x 1.25” (H)

Design Notes: Top is crocheted in two pieces, Front and Back, from the top down, with increase at the armpit and another increase for the hip. Shoulder and side seams are joined. Tie is crocheted separately and woven around the bottom.

Tip: Work in a loose relaxed manner, not tight.

Instructions:

Front:

Ch 66 (74 / 82) (or chain a multiple of 8 +2)

Row 1: Dc in fifth ch fr hook (count as 2 dc), *ch 4, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, rep fr * across, ending with ch 4, sk 3 ch, dc in each of last 2 ch, ch 3 (count as dc here and throughout), turn.

Row 2: *In 4-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), sk 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc) in last 4-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Dc in 3-ch sp, *ch 4, dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 4, dc in last 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Row 5: 3 dc in 3-ch sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, 3 dc in last 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 6: In 1-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), *sk 3-ch sp, in next 1-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), rep fr * across, ending with dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Rows 7-8 (7-10/7-10): Rep Rows 5-6.

Row 9 (11/11): (Inc row) In 3-ch sp make (3 dc , ch 1, 3 dc), *ch 3, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 3, 3 dc in last 3-ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 10 (12/12): Rep Row 6.

Rows 11-14 (13-16/13-16): Rep Rows 5-6.

Row 15 (17/17): Rep Row 3.

Rows 16-19 (18-21/18-21): Rep Rows 2-3.

Row 20 (22): Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (23): (Inc row) In 3-ch sp make (dc, ch 4, dc), *ch 3, dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 4, dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with ch 3, dc in last 3-ch sp, ch 4, dc in same 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Rows 22-25 (24-27): Rep Rows 2-3.

Row 26 (28/28): Rep Row 2.

Row 27 (29): Rep Row 5, end with ch 1, turn.

Row 28 (30): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sc in 1-ch sp, ch 3, sc in 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with sc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 29 (31): 2 dc in first sc, sc in first 3-ch sp, *5 dc in next sc, sc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with 3 dc in last sc. Fasten off.

Back

Same as in Front.

Finishing and Assembly

Work along the foundation ch of Front as follows: Working on the Right Side join to foundation ch with sl st, ch 1, sc in first foundation ch, *3 sc in 3-ch sp, sc in next ch where sc along Row 1 is worked, rep fr * across, end with sc in last ch. Fasten off. Repeat for Back.

With mattress st, join 6 sts of Front and Back sides along shoulders, leaving center open for neck.

With sc, join side seams from Rows 13-29 (15-31/15-31) as follows: working on Wrong Side of piece, join yarn with sl st to st between Row 13 (15/15) and Row 14 (16/16), ch 1, then make 3 sc around dc of each Row and 1 sc between each Row. Rows 1-12 (1-14) are left unworked for armholes.

Make tie as follows: ch 200 (250/250). Fasten off. Weave tie through Row 28 (30/30) with ends fastening at center front. Decorate ends of tie with beads or tassels.

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

Crocheting a Pair of Fingerless Gloves

For this project I used SuperSock by Ice Yarns. The yarn is quite fine (it is fingering weight yarn at 400 meters in 100 grams) so I used two strands held together and a 4mm crochet hook. Here is a documentation of how I made a pair of fingerless gloves. The number of stitches you need will depend on your own size. Remember to take note of the number of rounds and stitches you use since you will be making a second glove in the exact same manner.

Start at the top

Start at the top of your hand just at the base of the fingers. Crochet a long chain and sl st to make a ring that is large enough to fit around the hand – not too loose and not too tight.

Crochet several rounds of sc sts until you reach the inner base of the thumb. At this point you will need to work a gap for the thumb. You do this by working in rows instead of rounds. Remember to write down the number of stitches and rounds/rows for reference when making the other glove!!

Work the opening for the thumb

Start working in rows to make the opening for the thumb. When you reach the outer base of the thumb, resume working in rounds.

Work in rounds until you reach the desired length

Continue working in rounds until you reach the desired length of the glove. Next we will make the fingers.

Use stitch markers

Use stitch markers to indicate the spaces between the fingers. Use 3 stitch markers. I use yarn of different colour as marker and placed the 3 markers on one side of the glove. You can use 6 stitch markers if you wish to define the spaces in both sides of the glove.

Making holes for the fingers one at a time

Join yarn to corner of top of glove. Work sc into each sc over one side of the glove until you reach the first stitch marker on the other side. Make a dc to join to the corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole for one finger. Continue with sc until you reach the next stitch marker then make a dc joining to the corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole for the next finger. Continue in this manner until you reach the first sc made and join with a sl st. You now have 4 holes for fingers. Don't fasten off, you can continue crocheting the first finger.

Crocheting each finger

To crochet each finger you will need to work in rounds around each hole. Each finger also needs to taper a bit towards the tips. In my case, for the index finger, I started with 14 sc for 4 rounds, then dec 2 sts at round 5 to make 12 sc, and at round 6, a final round of 12 sc. Try on the glove as you work to test the fit. When satisfied, fasten off. The middle finger is worked in the same way. The ring finger and little finger are crocheted similarly but with less number of stitches. In my case, I started with 12 sc and decreased to 10 sc at the fifth and sixth rounds.

For me, the trickiest part here is crocheting the sc between the fingers. It gets rather crowded in that area, one just needs to insert the hook between the sc sts of the previous finger.

Here, you can also decide whether you'd want shorter or longer or full fingers for your glove. You can fasten off after one round of sc for each finger for truly fingerless gloves. If you want to make full gloves, you'll need to decrease towards the tip of each finger and close off the tips of the fingers.

Work around the thumb

Sc rounds are worked around the hole for the thumb, working one sc in each row. In my case, I had 20 sc all around. This is worked for 4 rounds, then round 5 is decreased to 16 sc, and crocheted in this number of sts for the last 3 sts for a total of 8 rounds. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Make the other glove in the same way. I hope you remembered to take note of the number of rounds and stitches used for the first glove!!! Good luck! Happy crocheting!

Dirty Kitchen and Current Crocheting

Here is a photo of the finished dirty kitchen. This was finished about a week ago. The guys - Kelly and Jessie - have since been busy building a pen for sow Number 3. The roof of the Dirty Kitchen uses g.i. sheets leftover from renovation of the roof of the house. The plumbing still needs to be done for the Dirty Kitchen. A dirty kitchen is an outside kitchen. It can be a simple and quickly built roof over a stove or can be more extravagant ;) like this. Folks often cook in such outside kitchens in rural places, using firewood collected from the hills. There's a clay oven in this dirty kitchen and Penny has used it to bake a coconut pie. At the back on the roof is a 'chimney' for smoke to pass through.

I have been able to do some crocheting as well. At the moment, I am wrangling with a circular vest. It is a very popular design. However, there is something that I want done about such a design. I am looking for more coverage for the front without making the collar of the vest too large. This means varying the length of the vest at the front and back and neck. Then I ran out of yarn! Oh well. ;)

Rainy Morning Scarf v. 2

I wrote the pattern for a multi-colour version of this scarf and have edited it for clarity. This is the edited version, with tassels added. :) I used yarn in two colours. You can opt for more colours.

Yarn: Ice Yarns Metallic Lurex 195m/100gr, 1 ball lilac colour, 1 ball turquoise colour

Hook: 4.5mm

Measurements: Finished scarf shown is 20" span and 9" tall.

RAINY MORNING SCARF

by Fatima Lasay / Crochetology.net

Design Note: The scarf is crocheted in one piece. After Row 2, the pattern repetition is established starting at Row 3. The pattern repetition consists of alternating rows of 2 sc increase and 1 sc decrease, resulting to an increase of 1 sc in each Row. Decorate the scarf with tassels at the three points if desired. Happy crocheting!

Tips: Learn to read the stitches in your work, especially at the beginning and at the end of each Row. This will allow you to work continuously without having to count the exact number of stitches made. A common error when crocheting this scarf is failing to recognise the first and last stitches.  Yarn recommended is DK weight and above. A larger hook is recommended. Work loosely and remember to do so especially at the beginning and end of each Row. If you work too tightly, the scarf may fold over at the edges.

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch fr hook, turn. (2 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, turn. (4 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 3 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across leaving the last sc unworked, turn.

Row 4: Sk first sc, sc in each sc across, work 3 sc in last sc, turn.

Row 5 onwards: Rep Rows 3-4. When changing colour, end with rep of Row 4 then join with new colour yarn and proceed to next Row.

When desired length of scarf is made, fasten off. 

The scarf shown is first worked in 66 rows of Lilac yarn, followed by 28 rows of turquoise yarn.

TASSEL

Make one tassel. Here’s how to make a tassel:

1. Cut or fold up a sturdy piece of cardboard that’s about half to one inch longer than the desired length of the tassel you want to make. My tassel is 3.5 inches long so I used a cardboard 4 inches long.

2. Wrap the yarn lengthwise around the cardboard as may times as you need to get a good thick tassel. I wrapped the yarn for my tassel about 25 times.

3. Get another yarn cut to 24 inches and slip this under the wound yarn and pull up towards the top. Now tie this yarn (called a “hanging loop”) securely around the top of the tassel. Slide the tassel off the cardboard then cut the yarn at the base.

4. Cut another piece of yarn about 3 times the length of the tassel and wrap this tightly around all the strands about half to an inch away from the hanging loop of the tassel. Secure the ends of the wrapping yarn by threading them under the strands and down through the center of the tassel. Trim the ends with sharp scissors.

Join tassels to tips of scarf. Weave in all ends and block.

Lace Up Top v. 2

This top is a variation from the Lace-Up Overdress. This is the second version. The first version uses ties to join the sides while the second version has side seams sewn together. The first version has ties for shoulder straps while this version has a higher neckline and ties at ends of shoulders for a sabrina neckline or an off-shoulder style.

YOU WILL NEED:

Yarn: Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150M/50gr. 100% acrylic. You will need 4 balls of this yarn.

Hook: 3.5mm

Substitute yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in solid colour.

Notions: 4 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.

You will also need yarn needle for sewing side seams together.

MEASUREMENTS:

Fits Bust 30”-36”

Length: 20”

GAUGE:

16 sc=4”/10cm

DESIGN NOTES:

Lace-Up Top v2 is crocheted in two pieces, Front and Back. Work commences at the bottom and proceeds to the top and armholes are shaped. Edging is worked all around the piece except the neckline. Side seams are sewn together leaving the bottom undone to make side slits. The neckline is made by sewing Front and Back points at the neck/shoulder and the ends of shoulder seams joined together with ties. Ties are decorated with wooden beads.

To make a larger top, start with a foundation ch in multiples of 12 +4 and add pattern repetitions after Row 39 to make a longer piece. Sew side seams accordingly to accommodate larger armholes.

INSTRUCTIONS:

FRONT

Ch 72 +4 (count as 1 dc)

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (73 dc made)

Row 2: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across; ch 5, turn.

Row 3: *Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 5: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 7: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a cross, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 8: 5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in last 5-ch lp, 5 dc in 5-ch turning ch, dc in third ch of same 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 9: 3 dc in first dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, 4 dc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 11: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 13-32: Rep Rows 3-12. End Row 32 with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

SHAPE THE ARMHOLES/NECKLINE:

Row 33: Sl st in first 2 ch, sc in next ch, *in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch lp, turn.

Row 34: Sl st in first 2 dc, *sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, rep fr * across, end with sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, turn.

Row 35: Sl St in first 3 dc, sc in next dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, turn.

Rows 36 – 37: Rep Rows 11-12.

Rows 38 – 39: Rep Row 3-4. At the end of Row 39, ch 1, turn.

Evenly crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each 3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows: sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first side. Fasten off.

BACK

Same as in Front.

Block Front and Back pieces before joining with ties.

SHOULDER TIES

Ch 100 to make tie for shoulder of overdress. Make 2 ties.

ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING

Sew together shoulder seams at 3 dc sts in middle of first and last 7-dc group at each side of the top. Use ties to tie together Front and Back through 5-ch turning ch/ch2-dc at Row 38.

Sew side seams together along Row 25 through Row 9.

Weave in all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels.

Lace-Up Top Free Pattern

A variation of the Lace-Up Overdress, this top consists of two sections, Front and Back, joined together by weaving ties along the side seams. The shoulder straps are adjustable ties. Strips of lace are sewn across the Front and Back hem. Ends of ties are decorated with coloured wooden beads.

YOU WILL NEED:

Yarn: Fettuccia Fine by Ice Yarns. 150M/50gr. 100% acrylic.

Hook: 3.5mm

Substitute yarn with Fine Weight yarn in cotton, acrylic, bamboo, or blends in solid colour.

Notions: 12 pcs wooden beads to decorate the shoulder and side ties.

You will also need matching colour lace at least 2 inches wide and 34 inches long.

MEASUREMENTS:

Fits Bust 30”-34”

Length: 21”

GAUGE:

16 sc=4”/10cm

DESIGN NOTES: To make a top in your size, start with a foundation ch in multiples of 12 +4. For a top to fit Bust 42”, you may start with ch 84 +4. To make a longer top, rep Rows 3-12 twice.

INSTRUCTIONS:

FRONT

Ch 60 +4 (count as 1 dc).

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch fr hk, dc in each ch across, ch 5, turn. (61 dc made)

Row 2: Sk first 2 dc, sc in next dc, *ch 5, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, end with ch 2, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: 5 dc in 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with 6 dc in last 5-ch turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 4: 3 dc in first dc, *sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, rep fr * across, end last rep with 4 dc in last 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in first dc, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in top of last 3-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 6: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *[ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc in first dc, ch 5, sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 8: *Sc in 5-ch lp, in next 5-ch lp make 11 dc, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, rep fr * across, ending with 11 dc in second to the last 5-ch lp, sc in last 5-ch loop ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 10: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, ending last rep with ch 5, sc in third ch of 5-ch turning ch, ch 5, turn.

Row 12: Sc in first 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr *a cross, ending last rep with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 13-22: Rep Row 3-12, ending last Row with ch 1, turn.

SHAPE THE ARMHOLES

Row 23: Sl st in 2-ch sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same 2-ch sp, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 11 dc in next 5-ch lp, sc in next 5-ch lp, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, 3 dc in 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 24: Sc in first dc, *ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, 7 dc in next dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in top of 3-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Sc in 2-ch sp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with sc in third ch of last 5-ch lp, turn.

Row 26: Sl st in each of next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp, *ch 2, 3dc-CL in next sc, ch 2, sc in next 5-ch lp, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 5, sc in third ch of last 5-ch lp, ch 5, turn.

Row 27: *Sc in first 5-ch lp, ch 5, sc in top of next 3dc-CL, [ch 5, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 2, dc in last sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 28 – 31: Rep Rows 3-6.

MAKE THE NECKLINE:

Row 32: Sc in first dc, *[ch 3, sc in next 5-ch lp] twice, rep fr * across, end with ch 3, sc in third ch of last 5-ch turning ch, ch 1, turn.

Row 33: Sc in first sc, *3 sc in next 3-ch sp, sc in next sc, rep fr * across, ending with sc in last sc, ch 1, sc in same sc then continue working along side of piece as follows:

Evenly crochet an edging along the side of the piece by making 3 sc in each 3-ch turning ch/dc stem, and 1 sc in each sc. When you reach the bottom of the piece, make 3 dc in dc stem (this is the first Row of the piece), then in foundation ch make (sc, ch 1, sc). Continue working along the bottom hem (foundation ch) of the piece as follows: sc in each of next 2 ch, *picot, sc in each of next 3 ch, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last ch. Continue working sc evenly along other side of the piece in a similar way as the first side. When you reach the last Row, work (sc, ch 1, sc) in the last sc, then finally, make the neckline trim as follows: sc in each of next 2 sc, *picot, sc in each of next 3 sc, rep from * across, ending with (sc, ch 1, sc) in last sc. Fasten off.

BACK

Same as in Front.

Block Front and Back pieces before joining with ties.

SIDE TIES

Ch 250 to make tie for side seam of overdress. Weave the tie in corresponding holes along side of overdress joining Front and Back sides together. Start joining from the top (at the armpit) downwards.

Make another tie for the other side of the overdress.

SHOULDER STRAPS

Join yarn with sl st to corner of neckline at Front. Ch 50, fasten off. Tie to corresponding hole at corner at Back. Rep for the other shoulder strap.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Decorate ends of ties with wooden beads and/or tassels. Sew matching colour lace over the first row of Front. Do the same for the Back.