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Monday, September 2, 2019

Wheat Harvest Table Cover


I finished this project in July 2019. I started this early last year. It took me over a year to finish. I have been crocheting very intermittently over the past couple of years. This is from a pattern called Wheat Harvest by Miyoshi Kuroi published in 1993.  

I used 1.25mm crochet hook and crochet cotton 10. The pattern calls for smaller hook and yarn but this is what I have. I made the cover to fit our table. The skulls are from our pigs. The table cover was starched to protect it from dust and dirt and to help keep its lace design and shape.

The wheat motif squares are delicate and beautiful and may be incorporated into other projects. I am thinking it may do well for garments, such as a cardigan.




Sunday, September 1, 2019

Mixed Shawl



This shawl is made up of modifications of 2 different patterns: Iris by Lucille LaFlamme and Oval Wonder by Glendola Hodges. Both were published in Magic Crochet Magazine 1993 and 1995 respectively. I used a 4mm hook and acrylic yarn from Zugbu Gradient Yarns in Cebu.

The shawl is worked from the top down. I started with the Iris Pattern, then mixed in the Oval Wonder pattern, then finished with the Iris Pattern. I am thinking of adding fringes to the shawl so that it would have more weight and as a result, better drape. I am also thinking that this is probably better in plain colour yarn.

I started this project in July 26 and finished in September 1.





Sunday, February 10, 2019

Recycling Project - Wrap Skirt

This is a very simple recycling project that uses an old skirt that is very large. I decided to turn it into a wrap skirt. Can anything be easier than that? :)




Here is the skirt. It had a damaged waistband and hem so I cut those away.





Then I cut the skirt down one side so that it becomes a long piece of cloth like this. This is long enough to be made into a wrap skirt.




Here, I sewed darts along the top of the skirt in order to create a shape. This will make the top part of the skirt taper to fit the body better. I made 6 darts for the wrap skirt.






Next, I sewed the waistband of the skirt, as well as the sides to make it neater. The ties are from an old garment. I cut them off and used those for the wrap skirt. You can see where I attached the ties in the photo. I also cut some scrap fabric from the old skirt and made it into a pocket.





And that's it! The wrap skirt is done!










Friday, February 8, 2019

Recycling Project - Skirt



This is a quick hand-sewn project and an idea for those looking for ways to recycle or upcycle their old crochet. This skirt features a layered design using the following recycled materials:

  1. Old small crocheted shawl no longer used
  2. Printed dress that got torn and cut in half; the upper part is used as a top and the lower part is used as the base skirt for this project
  3. Scrap pieces of printed fabric
  4. Old fancy eyelash yarn from stash - I am trying to reduce my yarn stash
  5. Buttons from old sweater
  6. Half slip no longer used because the waistband elastic is not very good anymore

First, I cut and repair small torn areas of the lower half of a printed dress which serves as the base for the skirt. I sew edges as neatly as possible.


Second, I cut scrap pieces of printed fabric to make a wide waistband for the skirt. The pieces of fabric are short, so they are joined together to go around the waistband. I joined 4 pieces of fabric for the waistband. I used 4 buttons from an old sweater to decorate the waistband.

Third, I sew the waistband to the skirt, with the crocheted shawl sandwiched between the waistband and skirt, as shown in the photo.


Fourth, a smaller portion of printed fabric is cut and sewn to make two ties for the skirt. Tassels are made using the eyelash yarn and sewn to the ends of the ties, then the ties are sewn to the side of the skirt, as shown in the photo.



Fifth, the skirt is turned inside out and the slip is sewn on, all along where the waistband is sewn to the skirt.


 
That's it! The skirt is finished!





Wednesday, August 2, 2017

New Projects for 2017

Here are some of the projects I finished recently. I used Ice Yarns for all these projects. The woven labels are from It's Mine Labels. Enjoy! :)

Cardigan using Antipilling Colour and Magic Fine (for trimming) both from Ice Yarns. The pattern is from a Japanese magazine and the hook I used is 4mm.





This is a jacket I made using 3.5mm hook and Summer Jeans Blue from Ice Yarns. The pattern is from Garnstudio.com called Whispers.





This is a circle jacket that I made by modifying a doily pattern. I used 4.5mm hook and Rainbow and Magic Fine Yarns by Ice Yarns.




Monday, July 24, 2017

White Feathers Free Crochet Pattern

White Feathers
 
You will need:
COCA by Lotus Yarns in natural white colour, 90% cotton/10% cashmere 320 meters/100 grams (150 grams needed for size S)
Crochet hook size 4mm

Design Notes: The top is crocheted in two pieces Front and Back. Each piece is worked from the bottom up. Shoulder and side seams are joined together using sc stitches worked on the wrong side. Model shown is in size S (Bust 32”), 21” long. Larger sizes may be made by starting with the appropriate length of foundation chain done in multiples of 8 +1.

Special Stitches used in this pattern:
2dc-CL (2 double crochet cluster): Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, make 2 dc in indicated stitch, yo, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
V-Stitch: In stitch indicated make (dc, ch 2, dc).



Instructions:

Front:

Ch 80 +1 (or make a foundation chain in multiples of 8 +1 that is half your hip size measured loosely, not tight)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in second ch fr hook, sc in each ch across, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row 2: Sk first two sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, dc in next sc, rep fr * across. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sc in first sc, *ch 2, sk next dc, in next dc make (2dc-CL, ch 2, 2dc-CL), ch 2, sk next dc, sc in next dc, rep fr * across, ending with sc in last dc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row 4: Dc in first sc, *ch 2, sc in 2-ch sp bet 2dc-CLs, ch 2, V-stitch in next sc, rep fr * across, ending with (dc, ch 1, dc) in last sc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row 5: 2dc-CL in first dc, *ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2, in 2-ch sp of V-stitch make (2dc-CL, ch 2, 2dc-CL), rep fr * across, ending with (2dc-CL, ch 1, dc) in last dc; ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Sc in first dc, *ch 2, V-stitch in next sc, ch 2, sc in 2-ch sp bet 2dc-CLs, rep fr * across, ending with ch 2, sc in last dc; ch 3 (count as dc), turn.
Row 7: Dc in first 2-ch sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next 2-ch sp, ch 1, dc in next 2-ch sp, dc in next sc, dc in next 2-ch sp, ch 1, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, dc in last 2-ch sp, dc in last sc; ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), turn.
Row 8: Dc in first 1-ch sp, *ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, dc in last dc; ch 1, turn.
Row 9: Rep fr Row 3 onwards until desired length is reached, ending with either Row 4 or Row 6. Fasten off.

Back:

Same as in Front.


Assembly and Finishing:

Working on the Wrong Side, join side seams with sc leaving holes for arms. Join the shoulder seams using same method. Fasten off. Block to measurements.


Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Lace Shorts Free Pattern

I made these shorts by modifying a capelet pattern. Give it a try and let me know if you have any questions or if you find any errors. Cheers! :)

 
 
Promenade Lace
by Fatima Lasay /Crochetology.net

You will need:
Natural Linen by Lotus yarns, 260 meters/100 grams (2 hanks or 200 grams for size S)
Crochet hook size 4mm

Measurements: Model shown in size S (hip circumference 34”)
Length: 16”
Length of crotch and overall length of shorts may be modified. Hip circumference may be modified by beginning with a foundation chain made in multiples of 7 sts.

Design Notes: The shorts are crocheted in the round starting at the waist, increasing towards the bottom. The crotch is made by joining front and back sides of the shorts in the middle. Each leg is then crocheted in the round separately. Waist band is crocheted over the foundation chain in the round. Ties are woven along the waist band and ends decorated with beads.

Instructions:

Ch a multiple of 7 sts to make a chain that goes around the hips comfortably, not too tight not too loose. Sl st in first ch to make a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in first ch, *ch 4, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 4, sk 3 ch, sc in next ch, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next 4-ch lp, 8 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st in second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, *dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 4: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 4 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 5: Sl st in each st to go to second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk 2 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 6: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next 4-ch lp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sc in last 4-ch lp, dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, *sk next (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, dc in next dc, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 8: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 9: Ch 6 ( count as dc, ch 3), *sk first 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, dc between next 2 sc, ch 3, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 10: Sl st in 3-ch sp, *8 dc in next 4-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch sp, ch 4, sc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with 8 dc in last 4-ch lp, sc in last 3-ch sp, ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 11: Sl st in first and second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc, ] 5 times, *in 4-ch lp make (dc, ch 1, dc), sk next dc, dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 12: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, ch 3, sk next 1-ch sp, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sk last 1-ch sp, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 13: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, in next 3-ch lp make (dc, ch 1, dc), ch 3, sk next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 14: Sl st in 4-ch lp, ch 3, 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sc in next 3-ch sp, 4 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 3-ch sp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sc in next 3-ch sp, 4 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 3-ch sp, 1 dc in next 4-ch sp, sl st in next dc to join.

Rnd 15: Ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), *dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 6 times, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, ch 1, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 16: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, ch 3, sc in next 2-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 17: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 1, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 18: Sl st up to the second ch of 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, sc in next 4-ch lp, *5 dc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 4-ch lp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, sc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with 5 dc in last 1-ch sp, sc in last 4-ch lp, dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 19: Sl st in next dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, *dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 2 times, sk (dc, sc, dc), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with dc in next dc, sk (dc, sc, dc), sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 20: Sl st in 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 21: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, in next 3-ch lp make (dc, ch 2, dc), ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 22: Sl st up to second ch of 4-ch lp, ch 3 (count as dc), 7 dc in same 4-ch lp, *sk 4-ch sp, 6 dc in next 2-ch sp, sk 4-ch sp, 9 dc in next 4-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with sk 4-ch sp, 6 dc in last 2-ch sp, (place stitch marker here), dc in first 4-ch lp, sl st in first dc to join. Fasten off.

NOTE: If you want a longer crotch for the shorts, continue with Rnds 23-25 (as in Rnds 1-3 of instructions for leg of shorts below, end the crotch with rep of Rnd 22, join the crotch at corresponding points and proceed with legs as below)

Join the crotch: Lay the garment flat with the stitch marker in the middle. Count the number of fans to determine the exact location of the corresponding point (bet 2 dc) at the back with the stich marker. Join these two points together by joining yarn with sl st, then proceed to making one leg of the shorts as follows:

Rnd 1: Sl st up to the second dc, ch 4 (count as dc, ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, *dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, dc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 6 times, rep fr * all around, ending with dc, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 2: Sl st in first 1-ch sp, ch 1, sc in same 1-ch sp, *[ch 3, sc in next 1-ch sp] 5 times, [sc in next 1-ch sp, ch 3] 2 times, sc in next 1-ch sp, rep fr * all around, ending with sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st up to the second 3-ch lp, ch 1, sc in same 3-ch lp, *ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 2, dc in next 3-ch lp, ch 4, sk next 3-ch lp, sc in next 3-ch lp, rep fr * all around, ending with ch 4, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 22.

Rnd 5-6: Rep Rnds 1-2 of leg of shorts. Fasten off. Rep for the other leg.

NOTE: If you want longer legs for your shorts rep Rnds 3-6 of leg of shorts.



Make the waistband:

Rnd 1: Join yarn with sl st to ch at waist. Make 3 sc in each 2-ch sp, sc in each sc, 4 sc in each 3-ch sp, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (count as dc), sc in each sc all around, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, rep fr * all around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc, 3 sc in each 3-ch sp all around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Make ties:

Ch 250 or more to make suitable length of chain to go all around the hips with extra for tying. Fasten off. Weave ties through 3-ch sps around waistband. Decorate ends of ties with beads. Block to measurements.


Friday, June 30, 2017

I'm Too Misty (Free Crochet Pattern)



You will need:
Yarn: Sugarfree Cottonberry (Substitute with Sport Weight /5-ply Yarn)
Hook: 4mm crochet hook

Measurements: Fits Bust 32”-34” (36”-38”/40”-42”)
Length: 21” (22.5”/22.5”)
Gauge: 1 patt rep = 1.75” (W) x 1.25” (H)

Design Notes: Top is crocheted in two pieces, Front and Back, from the top down, with increase at the armpit and another increase for the hip. Shoulder and side seams are joined. Tie is crocheted separately and woven around the bottom.

Tip: Work in a loose relaxed manner, not tight.



Instructions:

Front:

Ch 66 (74 / 82) (or chain a multiple of 8 +2)

Row 1: Dc in fifth ch fr hook (count as 2 dc), *ch 4, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in next ch, rep fr * across, ending with ch 4, sk 3 ch, dc in each of last 2 ch, ch 3 (count as dc here and throughout), turn.

Row 2: *In 4-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), sk 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc) in last 4-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Dc in 3-ch sp, *ch 4, dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 4, dc in last 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Row 5: 3 dc in 3-ch sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 1, 3 dc in last 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 6: In 1-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), *sk 3-ch sp, in next 1-ch sp make (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc), rep fr * across, ending with dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Rows 7-8 (7-10/7-10): Rep Rows 5-6.

Row 9 (11/11): (Inc row) In 3-ch sp make (3 dc , ch 1, 3 dc), *ch 3, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, ending with ch 3, 3 dc in last 3-ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 10 (12/12): Rep Row 6.

Rows 11-14 (13-16/13-16): Rep Rows 5-6.

Row 15 (17/17): Rep Row 3.

Rows 16-19 (18-21/18-21): Rep Rows 2-3.

Row 20 (22): Rep Row 2.

Row 21 (23): (Inc row) In 3-ch sp make (dc, ch 4, dc), *ch 3, dc in next 3-ch sp, ch 4, dc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with ch 3, dc in last 3-ch sp, ch 4, dc in same 3-ch sp, dc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Rows 22-25 (24-27): Rep Rows 2-3.

Row 26 (28/28): Rep Row 2.

Row 27 (29): Rep Row 5, end with ch 1, turn.

Row 28 (30): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sc in 1-ch sp, ch 3, sc in 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with sc in last dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 29 (31): 2 dc in first sc, sc in first 3-ch sp, *5 dc in next sc, sc in next 3-ch sp, rep fr * across, end with 3 dc in last sc. Fasten off.

Back

Same as in Front.



Finishing and Assembly

Work along the foundation ch of Front as follows: Working on the Right Side join to foundation ch with sl st, ch 1, sc in first foundation ch, *3 sc in 3-ch sp, sc in next ch where sc along Row 1 is worked, rep fr * across, end with sc in last ch. Fasten off. Repeat for Back.

With mattress st, join 6 sts of Front and Back sides along shoulders, leaving center open for neck.

With sc, join side seams from Rows 13-29 (15-31/15-31) as follows: working on Wrong Side of piece, join yarn with sl st to st between Row 13 (15/15) and Row 14 (16/16), ch 1, then make 3 sc around dc of each Row and 1 sc between each Row. Rows 1-12 (1-14) are left unworked for armholes.

Make tie as follows: ch 200 (250/250). Fasten off. Weave tie through Row 28 (30/30) with ends fastening at center front. Decorate ends of tie with beads or tassels.

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.


Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Crocheting a Pair of Fingerless Gloves


For this project I used SuperSock by Ice Yarns. The yarn is quite fine (it is fingering weight yarn at 400 meters in 100 grams) so I used two strands held together and a 4mm crochet hook. Here is a documentation of how I made a pair of fingerless gloves. The number of stitches you need will depend on your own size. Remember to take note of the number of rounds and stitches you use since you will be making a second glove in the exact same manner.


Start at the top
Start at the top of your hand just at the base of the fingers. Crochet a long chain and sl st to make a ring that is large enough to fit around the hand – not too loose and not too tight.



Crochet several rounds of sc sts until you reach the inner base of the thumb. At this point you will need to work a gap for the thumb. You do this by working in rows instead of rounds. Remember to write down the number of stitches and rounds/rows for reference when making the other glove!!



Work the opening for the thumb
Start working in rows to make the opening for the thumb. When you reach the outer base of the thumb, resume working in rounds.



Work in rounds until you reach the desired length
Continue working in rounds until you reach the desired length of the glove. Next we will make the fingers.



Use stitch markers
Use stitch markers to indicate the spaces between the fingers. Use 3 stitch markers. I use yarn of different colour as marker and placed the 3 markers on one side of the glove. You can use 6 stitch markers if you wish to define the spaces in both sides of the glove.



Making holes for the fingers one at a time
Join yarn to corner of top of glove. Work sc into each sc over one side of the glove until you reach the first stitch marker on the other side. Make a dc to join to the corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole for one finger. Continue with sc until you reach the next stitch marker then make a dc joining to the corresponding st on the other side of the glove. This makes a hole for the next finger. Continue in this manner until you reach the first sc made and join with a sl st. You now have 4 holes for fingers. Don't fasten off, you can continue crocheting the first finger.



Crocheting each finger
To crochet each finger you will need to work in rounds around each hole. Each finger also needs to taper a bit towards the tips. In my case, for the index finger, I started with 14 sc for 4 rounds, then dec 2 sts at round 5 to make 12 sc, and at round 6, a final round of 12 sc. Try on the glove as you work to test the fit. When satisfied, fasten off. The middle finger is worked in the same way. The ring finger and little finger are crocheted similarly but with less number of stitches. In my case, I started with 12 sc and decreased to 10 sc at the fifth and sixth rounds.



For me, the trickiest part here is crocheting the sc between the fingers. It gets rather crowded in that area, one just needs to insert the hook between the sc sts of the previous finger.

Here, you can also decide whether you'd want shorter or longer or full fingers for your glove. You can fasten off after one round of sc for each finger for truly fingerless gloves. If you want to make full gloves, you'll need to decrease towards the tip of each finger and close off the tips of the fingers.



Work around the thumb
Sc rounds are worked around the hole for the thumb, working one sc in each row. In my case, I had 20 sc all around. This is worked for 4 rounds, then round 5 is decreased to 16 sc, and crocheted in this number of sts for the last 3 sts for a total of 8 rounds. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.



Make the other glove in the same way. I hope you remembered to take note of the number of rounds and stitches used for the first glove!!! Good luck! Happy crocheting!