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Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Crocheted French knickers



Note: This project was originally completed in March 2012.

The knickers are now out to dry. I finished it this afternoon and have taken more photographs. I like the result. I used two strands of silk-camel lace yarn (2-ply) held together.



The pattern is based on an old pair of shorts which I took apart. There are 4 sections of the shorts and I drew the pattern onto a sheet of paper. I crocheted the four sections of the knickers separately using this paper pattern.




I made an error in one of the sections. In particular the back left section has a slightly wider leg. I hoped to rectify the error during seaming but the difference didn’t seem to affect the knickers too much.


I seam the pieces together first by tying with yarn. I never sew up the seams until I am sure of the fit.



After sewing the seams together, I start crocheting the band around the hip. This is done in the round and using a different all-over pattern. I do another fitting to make sure how long (from the waist to the hip) I would like the band to be.



The lace trim around the legs is crocheted next, using the same over-all pattern that I used for the hip/waist band. This lengthened the knickers a bit which made me realise they could look nice when worn under a short skirt or dress.



Finally, I got some white elastic to put around the waist.

I started by crocheting a narrow waist band using simple ch-4 loops of about 3 rows. Then I sewed one end of the elastic to the knickers and covered it with the waist band by folding over the waist band and crocheting onto the first row of ch-4 loops.

Both ends of the elastic are then sewn together as the waist band is completed.




Sunday, October 11, 2015

Unraveling a Crochet Pattern



Here's a new Crochetology challenge. I know a lot of crocheters love 'hacking' or ' deciphering' a pattern based on a photograph of a finished object. Often, the latest celebrity fashions or runway crochet fashions are the target of such hacks. Here's a simple garment I'd like to offer for you to decipher. However it is not celebrity fashion (although I have done it, I actually prefer not to do any reverse engineering of celebrity fashion or celebrity designer items). It is a simple granny square, a very traditional one, which I have used to make a pair of shorts.

Part 1


See if you can figure out how to get from this:



To this:



Let me know if you can figure it out! Then later, come up with your own designs! Have fun!

Part 2


Here's an update on the Crochetology hack challenge. We started with granny squares joined together. Those are just half the challenge because granny squares are easy and you can find lots of tutorials and patterns. One of the nice ones I've seen is this series. Granny squares are great because they are a clever pattern, easy to make and easy to adapt to various designs.


With the granny squares joined together, we have two large rectangles made. Here the large pieces are in two different colours, very impressive colours, so you can see how they join together to make up the shorts.


And here's the Crochetology.net challenge update: can you think of a simple construction method for a pair of shorts like these? What are the advantages and limits of this construction? What modification can be made to make better designs, comfortable fit and new styles?


Take a look at shorts and trousers you have at home. How are they constructed? If like me, you've never done any cutting and sewing of shorts and trousers, the construction of these garments can be quite a mystery.

So I looked at sewing patterns, as well as cut up an old pair of shorts as guide, and made my first crocheted knickers. This is worked in lace weight silk-camel yarn and was quite complicated. It is made up of four separate parts sewn together. So the finished knickers is seamed along the inside and outside of the legs, as well as along the crotch from front to back.




Then afterwards, I wanted to come up with something simpler. This is one example that is made in the round at the waist down, then the crotch, like a gusset, is made, joining from front to back, and finally the legs are crocheted all around the leg openings.



But I want an even simpler construction method. So far, this pair of wrap shorts is one of the simpler ones I've made. The construction itself is partly derived from a pair of Indonesian batik wrap shorts that resemble the style of the dhoti that is wrapped around the waist and the bottom pulled up between the legs. It is a very old clever garment design in many Asian cultures.

The construction I came up with is simpler than basic wrap short sewing designs that are made up of two parts, left and right sides, with a U-shape cut out in the middle to make up the crotch. However, I am yet to test this simple design and see what its limits are, in terms of fit and comfort. I'll post updates later, in the meantime, I invite you to try hacking existing designs to make new constructions  with me for a pair of shorts! :)

What Is Meant by Hacking?

Notwithstanding its negative connotations known in mass media and the general public, I have always viewed hacking in its early original intents in relation to the hacker subculture:

"A person who enjoys exploring the details of programmable systems and stretching their capabilities, as opposed to most users, who prefer to learn only the minimum necessary." - Eric Raymond, The jargon File

"The hacker culture is a subculture of individuals who enjoy the intellectual challenge of creatively overcoming and circumventing limitations of systems to achieve novel and clever outcomes." - Gehring, Verna Gehring, The Internet In Public Life

"The act of engaging in activities (such as programming or other media) in a spirit of playfulness and exploration." - The Hacker Community and Ethics: An Interview with Richard Stallman

"The defining characteristic of a hacker is not the activities performed themselves (e.g. programming), but the manner in which it is done: hacking entails some form of excellence, for example exploring the limits of what is possible." - Richard Stallman, On Hacking


Monday, October 5, 2015

Yes, Let's Twist Again


I know, I'm getting obsessive with this twisted scarf. For some reason, I really enjoy making these. So, after "Twisty", I decided to give it another go with the light orange alpaca yarn. The yarn is light fingering so I have used it doubled, with a 3.5mm crochet hook. This scarf measures 20 inches in circumference and 7 inches tall.

As with "Twisty", work begins with backloop hdc stitches that give the scarf a ribbed texture. Then what follows is a section of the scarf worked in dc-ch mesh. Then the scarf is twisted and the ends joined together with sc stitches.



I decided to add a simple border to this scarf, just a (sc, ch 3, sc) worked evenly all along the scarf. Then fasten off. With that, it would be fairly easy to come up with variations on colour, texture,  size. Remember that you can vary the width and length of the scarf, so you can wear in other ways, including as a shawl if it was wide enough to go over the shoulder. Maybe something to try next time. Haha!


Anyway, here below I provide a sketch of the stitch pattern use for this scarf. The foundation stitches are in even numbers. For the scarf here I started with ch 35 to make 34 stitches, making a scarf about 7" tall. With this sketch, I leave it to you to decide how you will make your scarf (and don't forget to add a border - in this case sc, ch 3, sc, all around the scarf - because I forgot to add it in the symbol pattern, haha! :D Have fun!



Sunday, October 4, 2015

Lacy Cotton Scarf



I made this pattern because I wanted a lacy, not too thick, scarf that did not stretch narrow. Make this scarf long or short as you desire. Add fringes at the ends if you wish. Experiment with colour.

Finished Measurements:
Approximately 17.5 inches. Longer scarf can be made by adding more rows.



Yarn: 
Crochet cotton thread size 8 (beige) in peach and lavender colour

Hook: Crochet hook size 2.5mm

Gauge: 22 stitches and 8 rows = 3" x 3" in stitch pattern

Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology



INSTRUCTIONS:
The scarf and flower are worked separately. The flower is attached to the scarf by tying the flower's ties through the lacy holes in the scarf, then the scarf is kept in place by passing the ties through the holes of the other end of the scarf. You can also use the flower as a corsage by sewing a pin at the back.

Special Stitches Used in this Pattern:

3 Double Crochet Together (3dctog): *Yo, insert hook in st and pull loop through, yo and and pull through 2 loops on hook, rep from * 2 more times, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.)



SCARF:

Ch 21.

Row 1: Ch 3 (makes 1 dc), dc in 5th ch from hook, dc in each of next 3 ch, ch 5, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 1 ch, sc in next ch, ch 5, sk 4 ch, dc in next 5 ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Sk first dc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in ch-5 sp, ch 1, 3dctog in ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, dc in next 5 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Sk first dc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 5, dc in next 5 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 4-48: Rep rows 2-3.

Scarf should measure approximately 17 inches. Test the scarf to check if you like the length, otherwise you can add more rows to make it longer. Don't fasten off – proceed to making the picot edges:

Picot edges: (These are just 3-ch loops spaced evenly all around the scarf) Ch 3, sc around post of first dc, ch 3, sc around same dc post, ch 3, sc around next dc post until end, making two 3-ch picots at every corner to turn. Fasten off.





FLOWER

Rnd 1: With two strands of lilac color thread held together, ch 6 (count as 1 dc, ch 3), dc in first ch, [ch 3, dc in same ch] 4 times, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 6 to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, *[sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc] in ch-3 sp, rep from * for all ch-3 sps. Ch 1, sc in back post of first dc of previous row.

Rnd 3: [Ch 7, sc in back post of next dc] 6 times.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc, hdc, 4 dc, ch 3, sl st in dc just made, 3 dc, hdc, sc] 6 times, sl st in back post of first dc of row 1.

Rnd 5: (First tie) Turn to wrong side, ch 43, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in same ch, sl st in each ch to end, sl st in same dc post.

Rnd 6: (Second tie) Ch 5, sl st in dc post opposite current post, ch 43, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in same ch, sl st in each ch to end, sl st in same dc post, fasten off.


Lace-Up Deux (Double Laced)



"Lace-Up Deux" are crocheted fingerless flirt gloves worked in red colour acrylic yarn. It is made up of two parts, the upper and lower parts which are then laced together at the two sides with black elastic strings. Red flat-back sew-on beads decorate the gloves. The free pattern includes both written and symbol instructions. You can find the single-laced gloves at "Lace-Up!"

You will need:


Hook: 3.5mm crochet hook
Yarn: Fingering or Sport weight acrylic yarn, red
Black elastic string cut into four 36" pieces
Red colour flat-back sew-on beads (0.5mm), 16 pieces

Finished Measurements:
Length: Approximately 5.5 inches
Wrist circumference: 5.5 inches




INSTRUCTIONS

Double Lace-up Fingerless Flirt Gloves (Make 2):
Note: The top and bottom sections of the glove are made separately and are laced up together at the sides with black elastic string.

Top section of glove:

Ch 12.

Row 1: Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc, ch 3), sc in 9th ch from hook, ch 3, skip 2 ch, *Yo, insert hook in next ch and pull loop through, yo and and pull through 2 loops on hook, rep from * 3 more times, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook (bobble made); ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Dc in first dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in top of bobble, ch 5, 2 dc in turning ch, ch 6, turn.

Row 3: Sc in 5-ch sp, ch 3, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Rows 4-11: Rep rows 2-3 four more times.

Row 12: Rep row 2.

Row 13: (Decreasing row) Sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, bobble in ch 1 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, sc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 14: Sk ch 3, dc in next sc, ch 3, [dc, ch 1, dc] in top of bobble, ch 3, dc in next sc, sk 2 ch, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 15: Sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, bobble in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in  turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 16: Sk 3 ch, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, [dc, ch 1, dc] in top of bobble, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in last ch-3 sp, ch 3, turn.

Row 17: Sk ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, bobble in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in last ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 18: (Loop for middle finger) Ch 16 (check if it fits), sc in last ch-3 sp. Fasten off.

Bottom section of glove:

Ch 17.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch, rep from * 4 times, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: *Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from * dc in next dc, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 5, dc in ch-2 sp, ch 5, sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 5: Dc in next dc, ch 6, sc in ch-5 sp, sk dc, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 6, sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 6: Dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch-6 sp, ch 5, dc between 2 scs, ch 5, 3 dc in ch-6 sp, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 7: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-5 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 8: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 9: *Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, rep from * 4 times, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 10: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 11: Dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc in same sp, ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next dc,  ch 3, dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc in same sp, ch 3, sc in turning ch. Fasten off.



Embellishing and lacing up: Block the four pieces first. Then sew the beads on the bobbles across the top of the gloves. Do this before you lace them up.

The crisscross method of lacing is used in the model – the laces simply crisscross as they work their way down the glove.  Lacing starts at row 11 of both top and bottom sections of the glove. Slip the laces in the chain spaces and between the two dc's. When you reach the end of the glove, knot the ends of the laces together.


Saturday, October 3, 2015

Lace-Up!



"Lace-Up!" are crocheted fingerless flirt gloves that can be adjusted to fit with laces along the underside of the gloves. These gloves are crocheted in one piece and lace ribbons woven all along the two sides under the wrist. The written pattern instructions are accompanied by crochet symbol charts at the bottom of this page.

Length: approximately 7 inches
Wrist circumference: approximately 5.5 inches but can be adjusted to fit
Sizes: Fits standard sizes; laces can be adjusted to fit
Yarn: Beige and cream colour crochet cotton thread size 8, work with two strands held together
Substitute with yarn at least Sport or DK weight


Crochet hook: 3.5mm
You will also need:
Two pieces of lace ribbon, 24 inches each, lavender colour
Terminology: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology

Pattern Instructions
Note: The glove is crocheted in one piece and the lace is woven along the edges under the wrist.



Lace-up Fingerless Flirt Gloves (make 2)

With beige and cream color crochet cotton threads held together, ch 38.

Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc), dc in 5th ch from hook, [ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, dc in next 3 ch, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in next ch, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next ch and in next 3 ch; [ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch] 3 times, dc in last ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Dc in next dc, [ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc] 3 times, dc in next 3 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, [ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc] 3 times, dc in turning ch, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 5, dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 5: Dc in next dc, ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next 4 dc; ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 6: Dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 4, tr between 2 sc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, tr between 2 sc, ch 4, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 7: Dc in next dc, ch 2, 3 dc in ch-4 sp, ch 2, sk tr, dc in next 4 dc; ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; ch 2, sk tr, 3 dc in ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 8: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 9: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2, ch, dc in next dc, sk 1 dc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; sk 1 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 10: Dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 11: Dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 4, sk 3 dc, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; ch 1, dc in ch-1 sp, ch 4, sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 12: Dc in next dc, ch 6, sc in ch-4 sp, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 6, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 13: Dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch-6 sp, ch 4, tr between 2 sc, ch 1, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble  in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; ch 1, tr between 2 sc, ch 4, 3 dc in ch-6 sp, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 14: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch-4 sp, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in ch-4 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 15: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2, ch, dc in next 4 dc; 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 16: Dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2 sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in last 2 dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 17: Dc in next dc ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp, ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 18: Sk 3 ch, dc in sc, ch 3, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 3, sk 3 ch, dc in sc, sk 3 ch, dc in next sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 19: Sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, bobble in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in dc, ch 3, turn.

Row 20: Sk ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, [dc, ch 1, dc] in bobble, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, turn.

Row 21: Sk ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, bobble in ch-1 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 22: Sc in same ch-3 sp,  sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sl st in next ch-3 sp, turn.

Row 23: Sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 16 (finger loop made, check your size), sk 2 dc, sl st in next ch-3 sp, sl st down along side of rows 22-18 until you reach last sc of row 18.

Row 24: Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc next dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc, dc in turning ch, fasten off.



Finishing: Weave in all ends. Block the two pieces. With lace ribbon, weave in crisscross fashion, starting at row 17 of the glove, down to row 1. Slip the ribbon between the two dc's along the edges of the glove. When you reach the end of the glove, knot the ends of the laces together, or leave them long and tie into a bow.




Amore (Inspired by Dolce & Gabbana)


"Amore" is a quick project inspired by jewellery on the runway of Dolce and Gabbana for Summer 2016. The pattern for the choker is provided here but the original intention of this project is to show a quick way of using photo-inspirations for making something new using crochet.



The same photo-inspiration can be used to create new designs not only in jewellery but also in garments and other items. Just experiment and see what you can come up with.

WHAT I USED

Cotton thread size 8 in white, green and multi-colour (orange/yellow)
Sewing needle
Fine gold embroidery thread
Metallic Gold yarn of sport weight
Crochet hook size 1.2mm for size 8 thread
Crochet hook size 3mm for yarn
Frosted Organza Ribbon, about 3 feet long
Red Flat Back Sew-On Beads (I wish I had more of these)
Small amount of stuffing





INSTRUCTIONS

FLOWERS (Make 6)

White cotton thread, ch 4, sl st in first ch to make a ring, ch 5.

Rnd 1: *Sk fist ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in last ch, sc in ring, ch 5; rep fr * 4 more times to make 5 petals, omitting ch 5 in last rep; sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Make center of white flower: Using multi-colour (orange/yellow) thread, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Sc in ring, *ch 3, sl st in top of sc to make picot, sc in ring; rep fr * 4 more times to make 5 picots, ending last rep wth sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off. Sew to center of white flower.



LEAVES

Small Leaves (Make 2)

Ch 5 (stem made), ch 6, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc  in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch (first leaf made); ch 6, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch (second leaf made); ch 6, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in sc at base of first leaf, sl st in each of 5 ch of stem. Fasten off.

Large Leaves (Make 2)

Ch 6 (stem made), ch 8, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, (first leaf made);  ch 5 (stem made);  ch 8, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, (second leaf made);   ch 8, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, (third leaf made);  sl st in sc at base of second leaf, sl st in each of next 2 ch of stem;  ch 8, sk first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, (fourth leaf made);  sl st in rest of stem. Fasten off.



FRUITS (Make 4)

Beige cotton thread, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 5 sc in ring, sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc (10 sc made), sl st in first sc to join.
Rnd 3: Sc in each sc (10 sc made).
Rnd 4: Sc in each sc (10 sc made).
Rnd 5: (Sc in first sc, sc2tog in next 2 sc) 3 times, sc in last sc.
Rnd 6: Stuff fruit and close as follows: (sc2tog in next 2 sc) 3 times, sc in last sc, fasten off with long tail for sewing. Sew a green calyx at the base of each fruit (see photo above).



BAND

With gold yarn, ch 9. Sk first ch, sc in each ch across (8 sc made); ch 1, turn; *sc in each sc across (8 sc made); ch 1, turn; repeat fr * to make a band 12 inches long. Fasten off.



ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING
(Refer to photos for arrangement, or make your own)

With gold thread, sew leaves to band.
Sew flowers and fruits to band.
Sew red flat beads to band.
Sew ribbon with gold thread to ends of band.
Sew ends of ribbons clean.
Weave in all ends.



Friday, October 2, 2015

Twisty



Twisty
(Named after our lovely duckling with the twisted beak)

This is a variation on the "Easy Does It!" super easy neckwarmer. The ribbed texture is made possible by half-double crochet stitches worked in the back-loop of stitches in rows, making for good stretchy fabric. The twist takes advantage of this stretch and texture, plus the change in subtle colour, creating an elegant twist to a simple design.

Hook: 3.5mm
Yarn: Alpaca in light pink and light orange colour
Substitute with DK / 8 ply (11 wpi) yarn that has good wool content for stretch, warmth and softness. You will need 20 grams of yarn of each colour.



Design Notes:

This neckwarmer is crocheted in rows flat, in one colour, then continued in a second colour. The neckwarmer is then twisted once and the ends crocheted together. Choose softly complimenting colours to re-create the subtle colour lightness of the neckwarmer.

Using suggested yarn and hook, starting 31 ch makes a neckwarmer 5.5" tall. Make shorter or higher as you require. The circumference is 20" which fits adult sizes with a bit extra to accommodate for the twist. Adjust to desired size accordingly.

Special stitches:
Half-double crochet: (Hdc): Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (one half double crochet made).

Backloop half-double crochet (bl-hdc): Yarn over hook, insert hook in back loop of stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through stitch, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (one back-loop half double crochet made).



Instructions:

Ch 31.

Row 1: Sk first ch, hdc in next ch, hdc in each ch across, 30 hdc made. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Bl-hdc in each of next 30 hdc. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 10". Join second colour yarn and repeat as in Row 2 until entire piece measures a total of 20". Twist once and start seaming as follows:

Working in both layers of stitches at ends of the piece, make sc in each of the 30 stitches. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
This is Twisty. She was born with a deformed beak. The kid who brought her here said he had to help her out of her shell. I think her beak wasn't strong enough to break out of her shell. She has trouble eating, she can't pick up seeds quick enough before the others could gobble it all up. So we have to give her special treatment, we let her eat straight from the bucket!